Bodegas Lerma is a personal project located in the heart of the Ribera del Arlanza region, specifically in the beautiful and historic municipality of Lerma (Burgos), located on a hill overlooking the plain of the Arlanza River. The Navarro Balbás family, winemakers in Arlanza and Ribera del Duero (also from Burgos, Bodegas Nabal de Gumiel de Izán), is known as one of the great promoters of the entire region, not only for exporting Arlanza wines through around the world for 25 years, but for the great work of recovering old Tempranillo vineyards and, also, for betting on “quality production of wines for aging.” The winery’s winemaker, Óscar Navarro, has no doubt that “this Arlanza wine region is in continuous expansion and boom due to the peculiarities it has, and we believe that it can offer quality content for those seeking the cutting edge in wine making. red wines aged in Spain”.
In 1998, Óscar Navarro embarked on this project, in which he currently continues as oenologist. He highlighted his participation in obtaining the DO Arlanza, which arrived in January 2008. Óscar Navarro studied oenology at the Escuela de La Vid y El Vino in Madrid, creating his first wine from the Ribera del Duero from the 1993 harvest (Bodegas Arzuaga), under the tutelage of winemaker Luis Diez Gamito. His brother Daniel is the commercial director of Bodegas Lerma. And their family involvement in the winery is completed by their siblings Sandra (in charge of wine tourism and public relations) and Andrés (in charge of marketing and events management).
With low yields that allow for greater quality in each grape, Arlanza maintains vineyards with an average age of 80 years, perfectly adapted to the calcareous and stony clay soils that allow slow ripening in this type of vineyard planted in glass at a height of more than 900 meters. Regarding this wine region, the fact that it maintains ancestral viticulture systems with the least possible intervention of machinery and discarding chemical elements stands out. The very quality of the vines allows them to develop “in the most ecological and natural way possible.”
Bodegas Lerma, founded 25 years ago in Lerma, currently produces around 60,000 bottles per year with only two references. 30% of its production is exported. Belgium, Germany and Mexico are its main international locations. They own 2 hectares of vineyards, and control nearly 40 more hectares of winegrowers in the area with whom they have worked closely for years. They have also opened up to wine tourism. In their winery they offer guided tours in several languages, guided tastings, tasting courses or tasting of their wines. And they also have spaces for events and a boutique hotel.
Gran Lerma 2016, its most iconic wine, although with a great quality-price ratio, is made with Tempranillo and 3% of the white Albillo Mayor and other varieties. Its grapes were born in a unique plot of old vineyard, in what is known as Finca el Borro. It is located less than 10 kilometers away from Bodegas Lerma. These vineyards that are more than 90 years old are planted in glass, in alluvial, limestone and pebble soil. The work in this vineyard is done by hand. They harvest, with 15 kilo boxes, at the optimal point of phenolic ripening during the second half of October. This allows them to make the clusters without destemming. They select the berries in the same vineyard. They affirm that “environmental care and sustainability are a hallmark of Gran Lerma.” Any chemical element is rejected. They want to “enhance the authenticity of the terroir.” The yield per hectare at Finca el Borro does not exceed 3,000 kilos of grapes per hectare.
In the preparation of this Reserva they use 50% well lignified (ripe) stems. Thus, whole, these clusters are vatted in small stainless steel tanks, where they are subtly stepped on until the alcoholic fermentation starts, and they are worked with manual bazuqueos. After 15 days, malolactic fermentation takes place in French oak barrels, in which the lees are stirred and worked, “providing a very unctuous and long-lasting touch.” Its aging lasted up to 24 months in second-use French oak barrels with a capacity of 225 liters. 12,000 bottles were made from this vintage.
It is a well-rounded red, with a color between garnet and cherry cherries. It breathes, on all sides, maturity and classicism. It is a wine with volume, complexity and marked tannicity, although with roundness and good balance. Black fruit on a bed of vanilla, coconut, Cuban tobacco leaf, leather and cedar. It also exhibits notes reminiscent of aromatic garrigue herbs, such as rosemary, and spices. With 14.8º of alcohol well integrated, and good total acidity (4.96 grams per liter). Winemaker Óscar Navarro defines it as “a complex wine, with intensity, with forest aromas from the stem and with a good depth in the mouth, which makes it long.” He also points out that “it is a wine that invites you to take another sip.” Kept in optimal conditions (fresh, away from light and at a constant temperature), this wine, according to the winery, will maintain its good qualities for some years. They recommend serving it between 16º and 18º C., in a large thin wine glass.
The winery points out that “the roundness and smoothness of Gran Lerma” makes it ideal for red meat and game feathers, such as duck or pheasant accompanied by sauces or fruit garnish. It also pairs with white meats, ham, sausages and cured and blue cheeses. And it is ideal for a wood-fired Castilian suckling pig in a clay pot accompanied with a loaf of bread and a salad. Winemaker Óscar Navarro, who is also a hunter, likes to pair it with game dishes such as stewed roe deer or wild boar, or with grilled roe deer loins.
