I am sitting in a bar in Chicago, staring at a shot glass filled with something called Jeppson’s Malört. I have never tried it before, and I am feeling a mix of curiosity and fear. Josh Noel, an author and former beer and travel writer for the Chicago Tribune, reassures me that it may not be as bad as I expect.
Noel has recently written a book called “Malört: The Redemption of a Revered and Reviled Spirit,” which delves into the history and legacy of Malört. This drink, originally purchased by Chicago businessman George Brode from Swedish immigrant Carl Jeppson, has a fascinating story of survival and resurgence. When Brode passed away, his secretary, Patricia Gabelick, took over the brand and saved it from obscurity.
While Malört has a reputation for being a strange and harsh drink, Noel’s book aims to demystify it and shed light on the people who have championed it over the years. He encourages people to stop overthinking it and let their senses experience the unique flavors for themselves.
During my visit to Christina’s Place, a bar in Irving Park, Noel guides me through my first taste of Malört. The smell is bitter and fruity, and the taste leaves a lingering, rubbery aftertaste. Despite never having tried Malört before, I was familiar with its legendary status in Chicago and beyond.
Noel’s book highlights the resurgence of Malört in the early 2010s, thanks to a combination of trendsetting bartenders and media coverage. He hopes to provide a definitive understanding of the drink and the people behind it, even for its current producers at CH Distillery.
As I continue to explore the world of Malört with Noel, I learn about the drink’s growing popularity and its presence in bars across Chicago. Noel’s book tour, which includes readings and events in various cities, aims to share the story of Malört and its unique place in Chicago’s drinking culture.
In conclusion, Malört may not be for everyone, but its fascinating history and dedicated following make it a drink worth exploring. Whether you love it or hate it, Malört’s story is deeply intertwined with the spirit of Chicago and its vibrant bar scene. Cheers to the enduring legacy of this revered and reviled spirit!
