Great historians such as Ptolemy and Pliny the Elder already highlighted in their writings centuries ago the latent importance of Enkarterri, the westernmost region of Euskadi. Hermitages, valleys, farmhouses and labyrinthine caves make up a landscape that navigates between the immaterial and the earthly, between the natural and the industrial: the most authentic Bizkaia.
The origins of Enkarterri (Las Encartaciones) go back to the pre-Roman tribe of the Autrigones, although other Paleolithic peoples had already set foot on these lands, as evidenced by the cave paintings at the Ventalaperra (Karrantza) and Arenaza (Galdames) sites. Historically, the region was made up of ten republics, which remained independent from Muslim rule and continued their autonomy as feudal lordships until they became linked to the Señorío de Vizcaya.
This fact could have been what gave the region its name, since, according to the chronicles, said feudal lords incorporated their lands into the territory of Bizkaia through letters and privileges. Another theory suggests that the name was attributed to it after having been a refuge for “encartados” or rebels convicted of crimes.
One of the symbols of politics and freedom in the Enkarterri region can be found in the old Abellaneda Assembly House, in the municipality of Sopuerta, today converted into the Encartaciones Museum. The current building is a restoration whose interior offers an interesting chronological journey through the region.
The Basque Country is a land of witches, and Enkarterri could not miss the stories about superstitions, pacts with the devil and other events related to witchcraft. From the Palace of the Güeñes Witches (Palace of the Hurtado de Amézaga family) to the sorcerers of Zalla, supernatural legends also flood this region.
This magical aura surrounds above all the aforementioned municipality of Zalla, where its thick fog seems to never dissipate, giving it this suggestive halo of mystery. Such is the connection of this town with covens and enchantments, that its inhabitants are known by the name of “witches”. Stories about sorcery abound in it, and there is even a pilgrimage church against the evil eye, the hermitage of San Pedro Zarikete. Located in a forgotten corner of the Camino de Santiago, in the past it attracted people from all over the Peninsula who came to get rid of evil spirits.
Within the natural wealth of Enkarterri, it is worth highlighting the Karrantza valley, one of the most unknown and beautiful areas of Bizkaia. This natural space is framed by massifs and peaks such as the Ordunte mountains, with outstanding peaks such as Zalama or Kolitza. The latter is one of the so-called horn mountains, from which general meetings were called by the sound of bugles and by means of bonfires.
The Armañón Natural Park is part of the Karrantza Valley, and is characterized by its karstic landscapes, its lush forests and its labyrinth of caves, more than 200, that go into the subsoil. The most famous is the Pozalagua cave, which in 2013 was awarded the title of Best Corner by the Repsol Guide. Pozalagua brings together the world’s largest collection of eccentric stalactites, characterized by their millimeter thickness.
In the middle of the Karrantza valley there is also a haven of peace for animals that are victims of illegal trafficking, hunting or abandonment. This is Karpin Fauna, where panthers, lynxes, deer, kangaroos, guanacos and other mistreated species are sheltered due to the impossibility of their surviving in the wild. In addition to the refuge, where more than 55 species live, the park also has a paleontological area.
To enjoy all the splendor of the Karrantza valley, you can take one of its hiking trails to the Alto de la Escrita or the Virgen del Buen Suceso, both of which are viewpoints to admire the impressive landscape.
As Pliny predicted, a prolific iron industry would be born from the bowels of Enkarterri, which would drive the region in the second half of the 19th century. It was in these mountains where, in addition to iron, one of the best-known sporting cries in the country was also forged: the alirón. The word comes from the adaptation of the English expression “all iron” (all iron) used by English businessmen who financed the exploitation of iron when they announced that the payment for the extracted mineral would be double. Without a doubt, a good reason for celebration.
There are no longer active mines in Enkarterri, but the Basque Country Mining Museum keeps the memory of this trade alive, offering visitors experiential experiences that recreate mining activity and housing an important collection of old tools.
In Muskiz, a municipality with an important mining tradition, the old El Pobal forge still exists, which manufactured everything from nails to build farmhouses and towers to swords for dueling. Every Saturday at noon, the master forger offers, between sparks and stoves, a live demonstration of this age-old technique.
If we talk about Enkarterri as a region of landmarks, we cannot forget the Loizaga tower and its collection of Rolls-Royce, the largest in Europe. These unique models made between 1910 and 1998 are well guarded within the walls of this 12th-century fortress set among forests and vineyards.
There are six pavilions that house 45 brand new Rolls-Royce vehicles considered authentic automotive jewels and that share space with cars from other famous brands such as Ferrari, Lamborghini or Jaguar. Through the different Rolls-Royce models you can see the evolution of its design over the years.
Unique examples shine like a 1936 Hispano-Suiza that belonged to French General Charles De Gaulle and a 1925 Isotta Frasquini, cover of The Automobile magazine in 1997 and one of the favorite models of American celebrities of that decade such as Rodolfo Valentino.
Enkarterri has the privilege of having the first town founded in Bizkaia, in the year 1199. We are talking about Balmaseda, which makes up a charming labyrinth of churches, stately homes and baroque palaces. Balmaseda was a meeting point for cultures, due to its excellent location close to commercial routes, which is reflected in its different popular traditions and in some architectural samples such as the Mudejar-inspired portico of the Town Hall.
There are three museums that stand out in the cultural panorama of Balmaseda. The History Museum exhibits vestiges of the municipality’s past such as books, documents and works of art of great value. It is divided into six areas that review the tangible and intangible heritage of the town, as well as the lives of illustrious personalities.
The La Encartada beret factory is another of the buildings that commemorates the beginnings of industrialization in the Basque Country. You can still see the old machinery, state-of-the-art at that time, as well as its original gears or the decoration of the rooms. The factory was born in 1892 and dedicated its production during the 19th century to wool berets (chapelas), ceasing its activity one hundred years later.
From the Balmasedan industry we went to religion. The Living Passion Interpretation Center is housed in the church of an old 17th century convent, and honors one of the most representative religious festivities in Balmaseda. The costumes of the protagonists of this Way of the Cross that takes place during Holy Week are exhibited in its naves, as well as the steps used in the processions, altarpieces, videos, images and information panels.
The farmhouses, the fertile land, the railway and the proximity to the Cantabrian Sea broadly summarize the characteristics of Enkarterri’s gastronomy, leaving its mark on a cuisine that mixes tradition and modernity. Garden products such as the purple onion from Zalla, a condiment that cannot be missing in a self-respecting balmasedana bean putxera, have become fundamental references.
From the stoves of the locomotives comes the tradition of the railway pot, which brings together the best flavors of this land. This tasty stew that was prepared in the heat of the locomotive to give strength to the train operators is today an authentic gastronomic emblem in the region.
The most select products are found in livestock. The rib, chorizo ??or black pudding from Sopuerta or Gordetxola, slowly cooked over charcoal in the traditional style, are the star ingredients of the Enkarterri stews. Accompanied with craft beer or the characteristic txacoli wine, they become a menu that vindicates tradition and good taste.
The palate is sweetened with typical sweets such as Galdames bread, Güeñes Basque cake or Karrantza pasta. And for true lovers of sweets, a visit to Kaitxo, in Balsameda, whose artisanal white chocolate was chosen among the best in the world at the International Chocolate Awards, is essential.
