Just twenty kilometers from Split is one of the great hidden treasures of Croatia, the Renaissance city of Trogir. The historic center of this curious island, which serves as a bridge between the mainland and Ciovo, has been on the World Heritage List since 1997.
Trogir maintains the urban tradition for more than 2,000 years. Its rich culture is a mixture of influences from ancient Greece and Rome, in addition to the important Venetian imprint. As a result of all of them, today you can see numerous palaces, churches and towers in every corner of the island.
Only 6,200 people populate the old part of the city, so one of the best ways to discover the essence of bucolic Trogir is to get lost in its quiet streets. In doing so, you will witness how time seems to have stopped behind its hundred-year-old walls, which hide corners that will remain forever etched on your retinas.
If for anything Trogir stands out it is for its very interesting and hectic history. Its foundation goes back to the 3rd century a. C., the period when the Greeks expanded along the Mediterranean and Adriatic coasts.
Then the Roman Empire would arrive, in the 1st century AD, which called the city Tragurium Civium Romanorum, and since then it would form part of the Roman province of Dalmatia. After the fall of the empire in the 5th century, Trogir was established as a city-state. But those who really influenced the current physiognomy were the Venetians, who occupied the historic center for four centuries, specifically until 1797.
In 1420 the Venetians conquered and brutally besieged it, thus devastating most of its buildings and leaving everything flattened. During this time it had to be almost completely rebuilt, projecting new palaces, houses, towers and fortresses. For this reason, many of the well-preserved Baroque and Renaissance buildings are from this period of Venetian domination. It is rightly known as “the city-museum”.
As a good walled city, Trogir welcomes us to its historic center through its two entrance gates. Since the 12th century, this defensive enclosure has protected the population center, and, although it is currently possible to access this area through various narrow streets that were opened over time, you cannot miss the experience of going through one of its old doors.
The south gate, located on the side facing the island of Ciovo, dates from the 16th century. As for the north gate, which is the one you reach after crossing the bridge that connects Trogir with the mainland, it was built in the 17th century. Although it could well seem original due to the good state of conservation of the rest of the city, the appearance of this last entrance is the result of a restoration in 1763.
One of the first points of interest in Trogir is the John Paul II or Ivana Pavla II square. The nerve center of this small town is the undisputed meeting place for locals, since the main terraces and restaurants in the area are located here.
In addition, this square is surrounded by the main historical buildings, such as the Rector’s Palace, which is the seat of the City Council, the Church of San Salvador, with its characteristic huge clock, the Ducal Palace and the Cipiko palaces.
On one side of the Plaza Juan Pablo II stands the impressive Cathedral of San Lorenzo, with its striking and well-cared façade, the work of the master Radovan. This temple, better known by the locals as San Juan, is the building that dominates the city with its 47-meter tower. Also the most emblematic.
Construction began around 1200 on the remains of a first basilica that was destroyed during attacks by the Saracens in 1123. Since then, the works would last until 1589, so you can easily appreciate the mixture of artistic styles and Romanesque elements. , Gothic, Renaissance and even Baroque.
Practically at the other end of the city, that is, at the western end of the islet, is the most famous fortress. It was built by the Venetians between the 13th and 15th centuries to serve as the governor’s residence and as a naval base in this part of the Adriatic.
Currently, the castle still retains its characteristic octagonal shape, very useful for monitoring the part facing the sea from the island. It should be noted that today this building is still alive, being used for various cultural purposes.
A few meters from the castle, practically at the end of the promenade, stands before our eyes the tower of San Marcos, dating from the 15th century. It has two floors. The lower one had only one cannon opening, while the upper one housed five casemates to install artillery pieces.
Some time ago this tower was linked to the Kamerlengo fortress thanks to the wall of Trogir, complementing the defense of the city. Currently both buildings are separated by a football field, and the tower houses the House of Dalmatian Music.
The Renaissance palaces that dot the streets of Trogir show us the greatness that the city once had. Two good examples of this are the Cipiko palaces, the big one and the small one, in Croatian Velika i malaca Cipiko, which are actually a single architectural complex formed by the fusion of two buildings.
Both were built in the 15th century by one of the most important families in Trogir, the Cipiko. And hence its name. The façade of the great palace, located in front of the cathedral, stands out for its beautiful Gothic clerestory in the purest Venetian style.
As we have seen, Trogir’s history is marked by Venetian domination, but also by its relationship with the Adriatic, and a clear reflection of this is its charming, albeit small, promenade. Located in the south of the island, this place is perfect to fall in love with a beautiful sunset by the sea.
As if its own charm is not enough, the promenade is lined with palm trees and full of cafes, restaurants and ice cream parlors that will delight any self-respecting visitor.
Although the historic center of this Croatian city is worth a trip just to enjoy it, you can take advantage of the visit to explore part of the so-called Trogir Riviera, along the Ciovo island and the Drvenik islands.
Among the most outstanding beaches is Pantan Beach just 1.5 kilometers east of the center of Trogir, at the mouth of the Pantan River. Other of the most beautiful beaches in the area are Kava on the Ciovo island, or Medena beach on the Seget Riviera. Any of them could be the perfect location from which to disconnect, after saying goodbye to this route through the Renaissance jewel of the Croatian coast.
