The grinding of the rails with the metal wheels, the creaking of the centuries-old wood and the unmistakable noise of the whistle create an ephemeral railway operetta. It seems that the problems of our daily lives have no place on board the tram. Everyone is happy and surprised – especially the adults, who seem like children for a while. The first section crosses the main square of the town passing a few meters from the terraces of the bars. Clients receive the shock wave of wind with pride, as if they had been the protagonists of a modest feat that they could tell their families.
A small lemon field appears that you can almost touch. A tourist takes out his ski pole to try, unsuccessfully, to grab one of them. The conductors, with a brown leather bag, move as best they can through the crowd, checking the tickets one by one, in a scene that seems to have been taken from an Italian neorealism film.
The electric tram was inaugurated in 1913, it was the first in Mallorca, covering the route between Sóller and Port de Sóller. In its beginnings, in addition to passengers, it transported food, merchandise, even coal to the old military submarine base. To this day, three original cars and two trailers still remain.
The entrance to the port is triumphant. After 4.8 kilometers the narrow cobbled road gives way to a wide and beautiful bay. The last few meters run along the promenade with views of the beach and a long row of bars, restaurants and souvenir shops. Passengers greet passersby who wave back as if they were old acquaintances. The maritime and port ecosystem merges on the horizon with a mountainous environment of hills and small peaks that make it extraordinary.
The bay is the backbone of the port. Its charming promenade, with an extensive row of palm trees and benches that overlook the beach, is the artery through which life flows. At one end is the marina. There, boats, boats and yachts rest in military formation. Each ship has a unique history and characteristics; Imagination flies with each boat, recreating the worlds traveled on its voyage.
Among all, the llaüt stands out, the traditional boat of the Balearic Islands. She is a wooden boat, with a lateen sail, no more than four meters in length and three masts. She is wide and stable, very useful for trolling fishing. Nowadays, Mallorcan families use them as entertainment, to sail along the coast, have a picnic and finish with a capfico, as they call it on the island to take a dip.
Right at the end, in the Marina Tramontana, is the first and necessary stop on the way. Of course it is the La Suculenta restaurant, with an unbeatable location, right on the sea and with the entire bay in front, contemplating from its terrace 360 ??degrees the sailboats entering and leaving the port. The establishment offers an exquisite and modern minimalist decoration, highlighted by the enormous stained glass windows that give spaciousness to the space. The menu features kilometer zero fish and seafood, and an extensive menu of rice dishes. Unforgettable is the marinated llampuga with creamy parsnip, broad beans and watercress or the refreshing fig salad with fresh burrata, carob honey and toasted almonds.
Port de Sóller is a great destination for nautical activities, from sport fishing to diving. The best company for diving in the waters of the Mediterranean is Octopus Divecenter, which offers courses for beginners and professionals, as well as night outings.
A beautiful boat excursion is the one that ends at the mouth of the fantastic Torrent de Pareis, with a stop at Cala Tuent. It is a fantastic opportunity to navigate the rugged and angular coastline, which is revealed between turquoise waters and steep cliffs, Mediterranean pines and vegetation that fights to survive in the most unexpected spaces.
The hotel offer is also very varied, although European family tourism of the upper-middle class predominates. The most celebrated and desired hotel by many is the Jumeirah Port Sóller. As if emulating one of the old watchtowers that exist on the coast, it stands monumental on a huge cliff. From the Talaia pool bar, with one of its signature cocktails, you can enjoy one of the best sunsets on the island.
The rooms are spacious, with a sober, elegant decoration and with fabulous views over the cliff. Its renowned restaurant Cap Roig satisfies the expectations of any foodie. The jewel in the crown is the Talisse Spa, a modern facility with a thermal area, saunas and ten treatment rooms in a fitness center of more than 2,200 square meters.
After levitating in the skies of the Jumeirah we descend to a more earthly plane and continue walking along the promenade, where the Mediterranean essence dances: a multitude of bars with large terraces in which customers toast and chat cheerfully, children on bicycles going to fishing, a neighbor who leaves the forn (bakery) with bread, retirees walking and the everlasting European tourist. Puerto de Sóller is a destination for good eating, where interesting gastronomic proposals converge. The Villa Luisa Restaurant, right in front of the sea, is another of those bets that do not fail: raw materials of the best quality and respect for the product in a cozy atmosphere. Their rice dishes are highly recommended, which are best savored with the caress of the sea breeze.
At the other corner of the bay is the dark sand beach, with disabled access services, areas with sun loungers and umbrellas. Between the months of May to October, bathers do their own baptism, although even in the month of January there are sollerics who dive into its waters. Walking along the promenade you can sense a certain French air: the orange and black striped awnings, the little white houses reminiscent of the Côte d’Azur, the vintage posters…
Actually, this has an explanation. Since Roman times, the Port of Sóller has been a commercial enclave, taking advantage of its strategic location that facilitated trade with other regions of the Mediterranean. In the 17th century, trade increased, mainly with the French ports, which were the closest.
In Port de Sóller there is also space for culture. The Maritime Museum offers a detailed insight into the maritime history of this corner of the Mediterranean. Inside are old boats, tools and artifacts related to fishing and navigation. Very close to the entrance there is a nice viewpoint to perpetuate the visit.
To finish, a short excursion to a place very loved by locals: the Picada tower. It is an old watchtower dating back to 1614 and was part of a defensive system on the Mallorcan coast, from which fire and smoke signals were made to report dangers and attacks. Currently it is a half-hour walking excursion to immerse yourself in the vegetation and native culture of this privileged Mediterranean corner.
