Surrounded by an aura of mystery and hypnotic colors, Pedro del Hierro transported the entire audience to a remote island in the Arctic Circle, where the first aurora borealis arrives. In charge of kicking off the 79th edition of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWMadrid), this magical moment marked by an impeccable staging was the guiding thread of Borealis, the proposal for the autumn-winter of Nacho Aguayo and Álex Miralles. This is a very special year for Pedro del Hierro, as it celebrates the 50th anniversary of the birth of the firm, and with this collection they wanted to reflect the essence of the house, where color, beauty and time melts to make the viewer vibrate.
“We loved the concept of the aurora borealis to reflect the night, the idea of ??cold, winter, and we bring it to the world of Pedro del Hierro to elevate it and dress it up”, explains Miralles to La Vanguardia. Cushioned outerwear, cocoon-style silhouettes, coats, tailoring and shiny fabrics took center stage on the catwalk. And sitting in the front row, Tamara Falcó played the double role of special and creative guest with the presentation of a selection of looks from her brand, TFP by Tamara Falcó.
The inspiration of Aguayo and Miralles draws from everyday events, the small details, from all the women and men who accompany them every day. The women’s collection, designed by Nacho Aguayo, and the men’s collection, designed by Álex Miralles, share the entire color palette, fabrics, silhouettes and imagery of clothing typologies. “Neither what is masculine is so masculine, nor what is feminine, so feminine. Álex Miralles uses a lot of women’s fabrics or typologies that, when worn by men, give him a new masculinity”, adds Aguayo, before reflecting on gender fluidity. “On the catwalk we show women’s blouses on men and much more masculine clothing on women. The genderless code is a reality, and we have the responsibility to cover the needs of customers”.
Simorra was another of the early risers of the Madrid catwalk. After the success it achieved in the previous edition, the Catalan firm presented the second proposal, The memory of time, inspired by fossils and the presence of life preserved in an instant. “It’s a memory of our time and everything that has happened”, says Eva Dimas, brand manager of the firm. Once again, fabrics are placed at the epicenter of the collection and draw on the ancestral ability to excite and tell stories. In this subject, Simorra is an advantaged student. Evidence of this is the three-dimensional fabrics, the ruffles screwed on technical fabric or nappa and the denim worked in geometric prising techniques that were seen on the catwalk.
Acromatyx rocked the crowd with a dark collection that is divided into three parts representing three different moments in electronic music. The result is a minimalist tailoring that coexists with what is urban and the shine of liquid metal and dresses up at night with sparkles and rhinestones.
For his part, Mans made his particular fusion of modern sophistication and timeless elegance, inspired by the English campaign and dandy style, and focused mainly on dresses in different patterns, from those with a “handkerchief” effect even the most volatile ones.
