The multiplicity of the female, to the nth power. This tells the third day of fashion shows, Fashion Week digital who love a little (too much perfection in the video and in the times), but invites us to reflect much. The incipit comes from Walter Chiapponi, creative, Tod’s, that in the comment on his video show, set in the halls of modernist architectures Pietro Portaluppi casa Corbellini-Wassermann, tells us the inspiration: “Not a sensual, but all that is Anna Magnani, or one of the women in Almodóvar”.
The trench coat that is tied to the Tod’s
And in this research, an “open” personality, the need to give answers to the shades, shapes and materials, comfortable (the first) and ‘real’ (seconds). Two heads on which to work: the trench coat and the duvet, as reviewed in an imaginary world of the Fifties, the iconic elegance, shaped by the attitude of sporty today. Tools in the brand’s dna: manual skill and craftsmanship. Here are the heads of the volumes and by the unexpected details that multiply the functions to use: the trench profile of skin so soft that is tied at the waist, which has a collar ruff removable outside), which is a touch-lived, but on the inside is voiced or soft duvet leather hand gloves (long or short) is tightened at the waist like a corset. Under changes to the classics: sets, shorts and jacket, dresses, batista, skirts, pencil-length and petite robe quilted. Accessories, reinterpreted in a decontracté, from the it-bag (TTimeless and Oboe) to loafers from the heel important.
rebellion of Veronica Etro
Redraw his vision of femininity Veronica Etro, starting from the sense of freedom, “the rebel” that the two artists have passed since she was a child: Rudolph Nureyev and Jimmy Hendrix. Two men, already: “I haven’t even thought about. I was dragged by their energy, their way of breaking the rules.” The invitation of the designer is to break the rules, leave their comfort zones and to live and inhabit. A daily in the open air, where jackets and suits, t-shirts and leggings, mini and maxi-dresses, jeans and sweatshirts dive into the imaginary of the colors and the paisley and tie&die Etro, key in a new.
The patchwork of Antonio Marras
to Define it as a video-the show is not on. The show digital by Antonio Marras (in the last draft will be a short contest) is a poem in the images and content. The earth barren of Sardinia in the loss of an eye, and a procession infinta of pilgrims who are going up towards the palace of Su Nuraxi, the nuragic complex of the Situation, to ask the gods Nuraxamanna the grace to defeat the plague . An army of devotees dressed in the manner of Marras, complete, and dresses from the past (up-cycled) and of the present, gathering of memories and affections. Jackets and coats, also unique pieces of patchwork and inlays and embroideries. Skirts and dresses retro, but never nostalgic. Ripples of t-shirts and sweatshirts romantic.
The colour that explodes from the black Marni
Romance, another word of the day. Francesco Risso for Marni transforms even in an obsessive thought: “After a lot of policy and communication, I had only one question. What is today the romance?”. And the answer to this designer off-the-wiring diagrams for the explorer in his own way: by studying and researching and following your instinct. “I found the darkness. The black from where I started.” On paper, a sacrilege for Marni if it were not that Risso does not stop there: it corrodes, manipulates, drying, and adds to the black, as well as cuts and stitches and folds and drape. With patience, almost cathartic, reaching the trench coat that explode in the skirts of the nineteenth century,turning men’s shirts in corsets, plugging the velvets to the duvets, painting or scratching the skin, exaggerating the links to rewrite the new Marni-festo, so poetic as surreal. It haunts his subconscious, the young Giuliano Calza for GCDS that says to get a piece of candy to alter perceptions and visions, and to define the meaning of life. Lots of stuff, really if the result is that the mini-dresses and pearls, or sheath dresses all of a porthole. Francesca Liberatore, finally, that interprets the tartan in his way, plugging them to the classic film.
