A long time ago chef Eugeni de Diego had in mind opening a bodeguilla for breakfasts and lunches, which also included a grocery section with its little corner dedicated to good stews to take away. In fact, it was so long ago that he was able to consciously think about the dishes he would serve, the packaged products he would display on his shelves -a selection from his private pantry-, or those preparations designed to take away. He had even decided on the name of the house, taken from a seventeenth-century English poet, the Earl of Rochester, extravagant, hedonistic and downright shady. A difficult surname to remember that curiously came to mind during a lively after-meal with friends in which, he admits, perhaps too many bottles were uncorked.
The opening of the Colmado Wilmot (Calvet, 28), in the place that for decades housed the home cooking of La Campana, has been long overdue because they had to find the right space and face some reforms that were prolonged. That meant that other projects de Diego devised later came forward, such as the successful Asian Tamae (in complicity with his friend Albert Raurich) or the Italian Lombo, which, barely four months old, also works wonderfully. But everything comes and the Wilmot Grocery too.
Impossible to recognize vestiges of that previous period inside, because they have thrown down walls and exhibit a bright kitchen that overlooks the street through a window. In front are Adrián Redondo and his right-hand man, David Guitart.
The new Wilmot grocery store (opened on Thursday) is accessed through the store area, where we find everything from good sausages to very fresh eggs or milk, as well as artisan packaged pasta, among other products, as well as pickles, pickles, sauces made by them, or stews ready to go. And a good selection of wines, which they sell and serve by the glass. The clientele will be able to sit in front of the small bar on one side of the premises or at the dining room tables, a space that we do not rule out that they will end up having to expand with more tables if the reception is as good as it is intuited.
They open early to offer breakfast, and at a time when brunch fever continues, the authenticity of the proposals to start the day is appreciated. For those who prefer sweet things, de Diego has chosen a selection of specialties from some of his favorite pastry shops. And for the rest, from cold sandwiches (sweet ham, Iberian ham, fuet, sobrassada, bull or Brie and Manchego cheeses) to hot ones such as veal pepito al ajillo with cheese, cubanito, sobrassada and honey, fricandó or squid with allioli and pickled onion. A success with which they earn a good position on the route of places to have a good breakfast. And more if we take into account that you can also opt for the spoon if you choose the stews that are also offered at noon.
The option of half portions is very interesting, served in the classic white rabaneras, which allows you to try various proposals on the menu at reasonable prices, which can be expanded with whims off the menu (and, obviously, make the bill more expensive). There is no imposture in this business of Diego and his partner, discreet but attentive like him to every detail, and he does want to serve that kitchen that the chef fell in love with when he was very young when he worked with his admired Isidre Gironès at Ca l’ Isidre. That, without being oblivious to the great learning at El Bulli.
From the times of Ca l’Isidre comes the exquisite cuttlefish ragout. Do not miss it, as well as the stroganoff meatballs, nor the capipota or the fricandó with espardenyes. Some of these stews can be eaten accompanied by one of the potato omelettes, part of a large section dedicated to eggs (on the plate with sobrassada, pig’s ear or kokotxas al pil pil…). All this completed if you want with the attractiveness of the proposals of the day, such as that delicious grilled scorpion or the shellfish that has just arrived.