* The author is part of the community of readers of La Vanguardia
This trip through northwest Italy perfectly combines rich history with natural beauty. The two cities in Tuscany that we visited: Pisa and Luca and the Ligurian towns, with their stunning coastline, are a destination that one cannot miss when traveling through the Italian Republic.
In Pisa, in the famous Piazza dei Miracoli, which someone described as an immaculate blanket of sanctuaries, one is impressed by this architectural complex composed of the Duomo, the Tower, the Baptistery and the Camposanto.
Regarding the Leaning Tower, I read that, a few years after it was built, the structure began to lean due to the terrain on which it sits, made up of sand and clay. The foundations were reinforced, in vain, and for centuries the Tower has resisted the attraction of the ground that invites it to merge with it. It seems to defy gravity, and in fact it could not be anywhere else that Galileo conducted his free fall experiments with spheres. It was this city that led us to Lucca, which some consider a rival to Pisa. Friends of the trip agree that this city is stately and very elegant.
Protected by an imposing Renaissance wall, crowned by a tree-lined path, it is a very well-preserved defensive bastion that gives access to the historic center through any of its six gates. It seemed to me to be a town with great personality. Religious buildings abound with their towers and bell towers, without forgetting the monumental Renaissance palaces. I cannot fail to mention, among its attractions, the wonderful cathedral, a mixture of Romanesque and Gothic styles. Between all the buildings, the small squares seem to give a respite. We especially enjoyed two of them.
The first, oval in shape, where we ate inside one of its many restaurants. Its name, Amphitheater Square, comes from the construction of an ancient Roman amphitheater and is flanked by pastel yellow buildings.
The other was to taste a tiramisu, half with my friend, and a drink while we recharged our batteries to continue exploring its streets. As an anecdotal fact, Lucca is known as “the city of a hundred towers”, a nickname that describes its silhouette, as some of them rise above its roofs. We looked with special interest at the Guinigi tower and thought it was an architectural gem.
Another curiosity, in this case for me, was discovering in a quiet street, full of peace, what was the last resting place of Santa Gema Galgani.
Calling myself Gema, I have always been interested in knowing something about the saint, and what was my surprise to find a door with her photograph at the top and a plaque explaining that she lived there for the last four years of her life.
After entering a church that was in front of the house and seeing a nun from the Missionary Sisters of Santa Gema, I wanted to express my desire to visit the room where she died. She welcomed my request with an open smile and she left us the keys to explore that room.
Later, on my return from the trip, I discovered that there is a sanctuary dedicated to the saint outside the medieval walls of Lucca. Its architect, inspired by the Berlin Cathedral, defined the new style of the building’s dome and bell tower.
After soaking up the art, we left Tuscany to visit the Liguria region, where some surprises awaited us. This territory is located between the mountain ranges of the Alps and the Apennines and the Mediterranean coast. We start by getting to know Spezia, the starting point to get closer to smaller and more picturesque towns like Cinque Terre.
This port city, with a maritime arsenal, testifies to a heritage linked to the sea. We strolled quietly looking at the warm colors of its facades and enjoyed walks along pedestrian streets that invited you to walk.
We prepare to tour an extensive area that covers five towns: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore, each one with a special charm. Despite the interest that this destination aroused in our small group of travelers, we were victims of a not very pleasant surprise when taking a route on foot along a very rugged road that went from the town of Vernazza to Corniglia. It did not seem like a moderate route to us at any time, since we spent more than two hours going up and down stairs while we passed countless people of all ages and the occasional animal.
We were about to give up, but when we realized our mistake we were already more than halfway there. The pity was that by being careful not to slip on the stones and not fall to the ground, the landscape was completely secondary, in addition to losing visibility with the trees and branches that were along the way.
Finally, we visited all these little towns, except for Monterosso. We decided that we would not return to finish the remaining visit and were satisfied with the day trip along this rugged coast of colorful houses, where the vineyards cling to steep terraces, the ports and some streets are full of fishing boats and where the focaccias whet the appetite of many tourists, eager to see the panoramic views.
We continue our trip along the Italian Ribiera, stopping in Porto Venere, where one of the most notable things is the castle and the church that are at the end of the town. There is a grotto there, which bears the name of Byron, a poet who had a predilection for that picturesque and beautiful place. It doesn’t surprise me, because from there there are spectacular views of the sea. A person from La Spezia recommended this visit to us and we were delighted.
However, this splendid tour had just begun and that same day, on the way to Genoa, we passed through Santa Margherita, which looked like an elegant vacation spot, with luxury hotels. Without stopping, we continue to Portofino with lush green landscapes. We ate there, fascinated by its undeniable charm.
The facades painted in bright colors with its pretty fishing port give it a postcard image. Still, after our stay in Genoa, we had yet to discover another gem, Camogli. It was difficult for us to park, but it was well worth investing that time and then enjoying a pleasant walk. The views, from any angle, were fascinating; especially those at the viewpoint next to the church.
By the way, when I learned about it, I read that it was a basilica. Climbing the staircase that leads to the façade and contemplating its elegant simplicity, I could not get an idea of ??its opulent baroque interior. Countless crystal chandeliers hung from the ceiling and colorful frescoes could be seen in the vaults.
The terrace with sea views that we chose to have a drink in this town was, according to my husband, the best of those we were lucky enough to experience.
Finally, we found the capital of Liguria, Genoa, to be an interesting city. It is a large historic center, with monumental streets built by old noble families, such as the Via Garibaldi, others with unevenness and a kilometer-long promenade. Upon arrival, we explore its old town and stare at Ferrari Square with its imposing buildings. The next day, we went to Boccadasse, a fishing neighborhood.
It is curious to see the many tourists who gather there, in addition to its architecture and its beach. It is an ideal place to sit in one of its many bars, as we did, and enjoy some beautiful views. Of the extensive wall that surrounded a large part of the city, there is a part that is preserved, very close to Plaza Ferrari. These are two circular towers that flank an arched door and that we took advantage of to take a photograph. Looking for architectural gems, we found the cathedral spectacular.
It was originally built as a Romanesque basilica, later reforms were made in the Gothic style and it was finished with a Renaissance dome.
Not to mention some of the interesting places we visited during our stay, I will list three of them: Piazza Matteotti, where the Doge’s Palace is located; the Old Port, and the Spianatta Castelletto. To the latter, we went up with an ornate elevator to see incomparable views of the city and the port.
Both in Genoa and La Spezia, we had the privilege of sleeping in houses whose owners baptized them with the name “palazzos”. We will keep the memory of those high ceilings and, especially, of a dinner we had in one of them, where we tasted some of the typical Italian products that we had bought.
I end with this phrase: “La vita è un viaggio e chi viaggia vive due volte.” Furthermore, I can affirm that the experiences of the journey trigger a greater level of trust and closeness among the group of friends. Arrivederci, Italy!
