A Romanesque hermitage in the middle of the forest in Barcelona that can be reached by metro. Well yes, even if it seems impossible, it exists. It is about Sant Cebrià, a small church located above the apartment blocks of Montbau, already in Collserola. Its history goes back to the twelfth century and it is like a miracle that it survives, albeit protected in the middle of a wooded area. It could have fallen into oblivion and deterioration if it hadn’t been for the Fonts family, who have been living in the adjoining house for decades and taking care of this little gem.
The hermitage of Sant Cebrià can be reached after a 10 to 15 minute walk from the Montbau metro station. At the end of a road, we come across this small church, attached to an old house and a snack bar that was very frequented in the past, but is inactive today.
Part of the Fonts family lives in the house, the mother and three children who act as homesteaders. Eugeni is currently actively taking care of the church, as well as collaborating in various popular culture initiatives in the city, such as the main festival of Montbau, one of the central events of which takes place precisely in the chapel.
The temple dates back to the 12th century, although its current appearance is the result of a reform carried out in the 18th century. In fact, at its beginnings, the entrance to the hermitage was oriented towards the west, while it has now turned 180 degrees and faces east.
At the back of the church, the marks of the old door, which was walled up, are still visible. The chapel is very small, only a few chairs fit. The most valuable piece is a baroque altarpiece presided over by Saint Cebrià and Saint Justina, two Roman martyrs. On the sides, display cases store pieces that have appeared in various excavations and renovations. Others disappeared during the Civil War.
The hermitage, the house and a few hectares around it are owned by the Desvalls family, marquises of Alfarràs, Llupià and del Poal. One of the members of this family, Joan Antoni Desvalls i d’Ardena, was the one who at the end of the 18th century ordered the construction of what is today Laberint Park and the palace that gives access to it.
