It is a fact: the best chocolates in the world are made with Latin American cocoa to the detriment of African beans (common cocoa that ends up mostly in industrial products). Therefore, it is not surprising that among the most exquisite and refined, the most expensive is made with raw materials from Ecuador.
Since recent archaeological studies revealed that this country is the true cradle of cocoa (remains of this fruit about 5,300 years old were found in the south of Ecuador that banished the theory that its origin was Mexican), Ecuadorians have made a flag of this crop inside which are the aromatic grains that once harvested are the starting point for the production of chocolate, one of the most irresistible flavors that exist.
Among the most recognized brands of Ecuadorian chocolate are Pacari (winner of numerous awards at the International Chocolate Awards where the highest quality exponents in the world are evaluated), República de Cacao and To’ak, which in 2014 became viral news for its high value: 250 dollars for 50 grams of chocolate that would later rise to 490 dollars (454 euros) for special editions made by artists.
From National Geographic and the Los Angeles Times to Forbes visited the farm where it is produced. They classified it as the most expensive in the world and the brand catapulted into the leagues of global luxury: it has even made alliances with established brands in that niche such as Cartier, Ritz-Carlton and Rolls Royce.
The origin of To’ak is quite recent and is linked to a valuable discovery in the world of cocoa. 17 years ago, an American philanthropist named Jerry Toth landed in the Ecuadorian rainforest to found a conservation project. The exact coordinates were in the Piedra de Plata valley, in the Ecuadorian province of Manabí.
Isolated in the forest, Toth discovered specimens of a prestigious variety of cocoa called Nacional de Ecuador that was believed to have been almost extinct a little less than a hundred years ago due to a pest known as “witch’s broom.” The discovery was very significant because during the 19th century the country had been the world’s largest exporter of this fruit and this was the best of its strains. It was then that, together with international partners, he designed this project where environmental commitment and luxury come together.
A chocolate made with the zeal and dedication that produces a high-end wine, in which the concept of terroir is central, can also be tasted as such. That is why in To’ak chocolates it is sometimes possible to find citrus, woody or smoky aromas. Or a taste of whiskey, “forest” or nuts, as is usually detected in tastings of alcoholic beverages. These products even go through an aging process in old barrels.
“We are pioneers in this. In 2014 a collector gave us an empty cognac barrel to age the chocolate in. We did it for a year and found delicious notes of cognac. Chocolate absorbs everything that is around it and today, thanks to studies at the University of Washington (USA), we know that it can age for up to twenty years,” explained Venecia Quesada, To’ak chocolatier during an event. carried out by the Ministry of Tourism of Ecuador.
It is known that time is money but the high value of this product is not only explained in this process. Despite having an outstanding richness of flavors and aromas, the National variety has a lower yield per hectare than other strains and, in a context in which this entire industry has a bad reputation for situations of exploitation, To’ak has a seal of Fair Trade. “We pay farmers up to 3 times more than what is paid in the market,” says Venecia Quesada.
The packaging of the different lines of its products (Alchemy, Signature and the equivalent of a Grand Cru in the world of wine, Reserve) are careful artistic objects that in some cases include golden leaves and wooden boxes. And the labels boast as much nutritional and traceability information as any product with a designation of origin.
All of these products are sold online and in sophisticated global stores such as Harrods in London. And according to Elizabeth Barsallo, Commercial Advisor of Ecuador in Argentina, they want to market it soon in Argentina: “Until now it could not be brought in but we are waiting for imports to open so that chocolate of this quality can arrive in the country. We believe that in the second half of this year it will be possible to taste it here.”
