“Watercress” in English, or “berro de agua” in Spanish. It is likely that most consumers have never heard of this wild plant that grows naturally in streams. Its consumption in Spain is so minimal that even among farmers, there is uncertainty as to whether it is actively cultivated. What is most curious is that many have tried it without even realizing, as one of the few ways to encounter it is inside pre-packaged salads. It is in these bags of clean, neatly cut, ready-to-eat vegetables where one can taste watercress with its characteristic spicy touch on the palate. Beyond this testimonial presence, watercress does not truly exist; it is a ghost vegetable in Spain.
Your absence wouldn’t be clamorous if it weren’t for the fact that science has shed light on its magnificent health properties. A rigorous study for the Center for Disease Prevention (CDC) decided to calculate the percentages of nutrients in raw foods according to daily needs. Almost inadvertently, the research led by Dr. Jennifer Di Noia ended up developing a method to define the most nutritious fruits and vegetables on the planet and, inadvertently, those most related to reducing the risk of chronic diseases.
Dr. Di Noia and her team identified the 47 foods with the highest content of healthy nutrients endorsed by the Institute of Medicine and the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO). In total, they defined 17 essential nutrients: potassium, fiber, proteins, calcium, iron, thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, folic acid, zinc, and vitamins A, B6, B12, C, D, E, and K. The list of foods included vegetables, berries, citrus fruits, and alliums such as onions, garlic, scallions, and leeks. The goal was to accurately determine the percentage of calories and quantities of these 17 nutrients per 100 grams of food without cooking.
Out of the 47 foods studied, all but 6 (raspberries, tangerines, blueberries, garlic, onions, and cranberries) met the rigorous admission criteria. This led to the identification of the 41 selected foods that scientists referred to as “Powerhouse Fruits and Vegetables,” perhaps avoiding the controversial term “superfood” that is so heavily marketed today.
The list is topped by grapefruit with a final nutrient density percentage of 10.4%. It is followed by sweet potato (10.51%), orange (12.91%), lime (12.23%), lemon (18.72%), strawberry (17.59%), Iceberg lettuce (18.28%), tomato (20.37%), and carrot (22.60%). In the middle of the table, we find pumpkin (33.82%), red bell pepper (41.26%), and kale (49.07%). In honorary positions are green beetroot (87.08%), spinach (86.43%), chicory (73.36%), leaf lettuce (70.73%), and parsley (65.59%). And at the top of the podium are Swiss chard (89.27%) and bok choy (91.99%).
But it was a plant from the cruciferous family like cabbage, arugula, or broccoli that claimed the throne of the most nutrient-dense foods. Watercress led the list unquestionably, with a final percentage of 100%, surpassing the second-place by over 8%. In short, in terms of nutrition, it was something akin to the perfect food, if such a thing existed.
In their final argument, the researchers concluded that “the proposed classification scheme can help reinforce the message of the nutritional power of fruits and vegetables to the public. A message that can assist consumers in identifying certain foods and choosing them to promote the overall consumption of fruits and vegetables for the energy they provide.”
Following this scientific argument, it is assumed that most farmers should be fighting to fill their hectares with an army of watercress. Nothing could be further from the truth, as in most of our territory, its large-scale cultivation could pose a serious problem for local agriculture. Among other things, because the existing climate favors the cultivation of other types of fruits and vegetables. “Watercress requires semi-flooded areas with very high humidity for its ideal cultivation,” reflects Ernest Mas, field manager at ‘Disfruta i Verdura’ (Cambrils, Tarragona). “Sure, watercress is fantastic! But the truth is that in our territory, the conditions for its large-scale production are not met. If you add to this that the Mediterranean climate precisely demands water the most, well, you can imagine… No matter how good they are, I don’t see a strong enough reason to start semi-flooding fields to grow watercress.”
An inconvenience that reminds us a lot of what happened with the trendy fruit in other agricultural areas: “Of course, it is a super healthy vegetable, but if I have to produce it in an unsuitable environment to be super healthy, I don’t see where the business is for the farmer. It’s like avocados, which are being produced on a large scale, and the problem is that they require a tropical climate with a lot of water. In places like Malaga, it is causing water reserves to run out.”
Regardless of what science may say, just as we cannot all eat avocados every day, we also cannot start growing and eating watercress without causing a short circuit in the ecosystem of our soil. “The perfect triangle is formed so that watercress is not commercialized in Spain,” emphasizes Ernest Mas. “There is no demand because there is no supply. And since there is no supply, it is a completely unknown food.” The combination of these three elements creates an increasingly common situation: where science and reality must take different paths for the sake of sustainability and local commerce. “But also, if people were to become aware of watercress, there would still be another obstacle. And that is that it is very difficult to position a new product.”
This expert farmer knows what he’s talking about. He has experienced it with different fruits and vegetables in the past. First with kale and now with kalette (a hybrid between cabbage and kale). “For example, if the media were to start publishing news about the benefits of watercress, people might become interested and eager to try it. The problem is that they probably wouldn’t find it in their regular supermarket or market because it is hardly commercialized in Spain. This would automatically lead to a buying impulse disappointment, and they would forget about watercress forever.”
A highly complex gear that requires the entire process of popularizing a new fruit or vegetable to be synchronized by all parties involved. Something that has rarely happened (see mango or kale). “It is a very important issue to consider from three different scenarios. First, what does it cost to produce watercress. Second, what is the best way to produce them, but also, at the same level, what impact would watercress have on my territory. Of course, we need healthy foods, but these foods must also care for the environment without the need to perform tricks to promote a trendy food. If things don’t change, watercress will always be a very minority option for high-end restaurants or for companies selling to foreign markets.”
One of these companies, located in Jerez de la Frontera (Cádiz), stands out for its modus operandi. Royalcress is the largest watercress producer in Europe. Specifically, from its 70 hectares spread across different gravel beds irrigated with well water, 1.5 million watercress plants are harvested. The goal is to replicate the conditions in which this plant grows on the banks of streams. “We are just a few kilometers away from the rainiest place in Spain, the Sierra de Grazalema, which contributes a large amount of excellent water to the subsoil of the Jerez countryside,” claim its managers.
And they achieve it quite well, as they annually produce tons of top-quality watercress. A more than sufficient amount to have a much more dignified presence in the national market, if it weren’t for a small detail: all the production is sold to the English market. “Watercress has experienced a sort of renaissance in the United Kingdom in the last 20 years,” say its managers. “Due to this increase in popularity, the British capital company established itself in Spain to ensure year-round supply.”
It is ironic that the southern region of Spain has an enormous capacity to produce the most nutrient-rich food on the planet according to science, but not a single leaf of this highly desired plant is consumed in our homes. “Despite producing watercress in Spain for over 30 years, not a single bag is sold in our supermarkets. Watercress is starting to make an appearance in the emerging Spanish fourth-range market,” they claim on their website.
To break away from this dietary nonsense, the company has been trying for some time to promote, with varying degrees of success, the virtues of watercress at fairs and restaurants in Andalusia, aiming to captivate large supermarkets, small packagers, and new consumers. How? By offering tastings of different recipes showcasing their star product. “Watercress can be consumed raw (in salads, sandwiches) or cooked (in stews, soups, omelets). They are also excellent as bases for sauces (pesto, green sauce) and as garnishes or fillings for meats or fish.”
A versatility that has not helped to consolidate watercress among Spanish consumer predictions. Therefore, for now, it has to settle for outselling land cress and playing a secondary role, disguising all its potential within a fourth-range salad. Without the buyer being aware that among all that green mix, lies the food that has captivated science with 100% nutrient density in every bite.
