The Plaza del Marqués de Salamanca, in the heart of Madrid’s most thriving residential neighborhood, is on its way to becoming a top-class culinary destination. In the eastern section of Ortega y Gasset street, in front of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, work continues on the future Tragabuches by Dani García, in the premises once occupied by Combarro; next to him, a Rocacho branch will soon open, to bring the meats of El Capricho closer to the high bourgeoisie of the area. Meanwhile, on the other side of the square, Abya has just opened, with Madrid chef Aurelio Morales (formerly Cebo) at the head of this ambitious gastro-fashion and events project.
The name of Abya comes from the indigenous term Abya yala, which means living land or land in full maturity and is -as the establishment’s website indicates- “the oldest known to refer to American territory”. “Abya represents an eclectic and experiential space where two worlds come together… We propose a new trend created to connect Latin America with the best of the world through culinary and cultural syncretism,” continues the presentation text.
Forty million euros is said to have cost the Mexican Manuel González the acquisition of the Palacio de Saldaña, an impressive French neo-baroque-style hotel built in 1903 by the architect Joaquín Saldaña for the Marquis of Hijosa de Álava. The place had been closed for some time after having been, in past decades, the headquarters of the Juvenile Protection Court and suffering in 1977 an attack perpetrated by the Spanish International Anti-Fascist Movement. Lately, the property came to pass through the hands of a business group related to Operation Malaya…
González bought it four years ago with the intention of creating a unique space of its kind, and boy has he succeeded! Respecting the façade -which is classified by the Madrid City Council as a singular building-, the new owner has invested another 10 million in an interior reform carried out by the decorator Paulina Morán, to transform these 1,000 square meters spread over four floors in a series of interconnected spaces where diners can just as well have a cocktail and a snack in the two bars on the ground floor as have lunch or dinner non-stop in the lounges on the first floor, in a chic brasserie atmosphere flooded with daylight and DJ music, colorful and somewhat motley, where the paintings by Paola Martínez, the mosaics by Miguel Milló and the murals by Vladimir Cora stand out.
The team of 50 employees is led by Bárbara de la Cruz (ex Tatel) and has the capacity to serve more than 300 diners. As for non-stop cuisine, Aurelio defines it as an eclectic, contemporary proposal for all tastes that “connects the gastronomy of the world with that of Latin America”. Bringing around twenty faithful collaborators from his previous home at the Hotel Urban – where this distinguished disciple of Paco Pérez officiated for 7 years, obtaining a Michelin star-, the Madrid chef has managed to ensure that the fundamental aspect, what arrives on the plate, is satisfactory from day one. so big and recent.
Waiting to open soon a more exclusive gastronomic space on the second floor, where the tasting menu will prevail, Abya’s inaugural menu is extensive and abounds in things to share, from various types of croquettes -pay attention to those made with Iranian osetra caviar- to the guacamole with Iberian suckling pig pork rinds or the Japanese wagyu salad A-5. And speaking of the most expensive meat in the world, there is also a wagyu burger with an Iberian veil, smoked cheese and fries with grated truffle and other odes to luxurious ingredients, such as lobster rolls with poached lobster and caviar tartare; a corn flan dessert garnished with black truffle and a creamy truffle and gold risotto… which pays homage to Gualtiero Marchesi.
On our first visit, with an almost spring temperature, we dispensed with the most forceful dishes to focus on light bites: wild sea bass, scallop and hoja santa ceviche; Mediterranean bluefin tuna sashimi pizzitas and wasabi vinaigrette; Andalusian-style marinated sole taco with piquín chile cream and pickled avocado; Atlantic sea bream Madrid style. For dessert, a “Xocolact” cenote with an Aztec spirit… and a bit of gold dust to follow the general trend. Service still in progress and extensive wine list, full of attractive bottles. Interesting cocktails, somewhat small portions and not affordable prices. A place of high standing to see and be seen while drinking and eating more than with dignity. A new place to add to the cosmopolitan circuit of Robuchon, Dani Brasserie or Leña where the experience goes beyond what comes to the table.
