In the Netflix series Living 100 Years: The Secrets of the Blue Zones, writer Dan Buettner travels the world in search of ways of life that promote longevity, of communities lost in remote folds where, due to strange vicissitudes, centenarians make up an exceptional concentration. One of them is found in Sardinia, the island famous for its idyllic beaches, its turbulent history and its proud identity, Italian yes, but with its own personality.
Here, in the heart of the Mediterranean, you discover that living longer may have to do with walking a lot (and climbing steep hills), eating good carbohydrates (that’s what pasta has) and controlling stress by soaking your eyes in beautiful nature. But he also detects that a determining factor for long existence is maintaining traditions. Like maintaining the veneration for the family tooth and nail.
Tranquility, healthy eating and deep-rooted customs indeed abound on the second largest island in the country of the boot. And although the conclusion of the episode is that these long-lived people loved and felt loved (a noble cause to last over time) the truth is that happiness seems to be the norm here. It will be because extravagance is its essence. Or because, as the writer D.H. Lawrence “Sardinia is different.”
You have to explore the off-the-beaten path to perceive the charms of this territory six times larger than Mallorca, which this same author referred to as “lost between Europe and Africa without belonging anywhere.” Because beyond the sinuous bays of the Costa Smeralda that attract supermodels and celluloid stars, there are mountains, forests, gorges, caves… A whole rugged interior that confirms that Sardinia, indeed, only belongs to the Sardinians.
It is in the south where we find the most authentic facet of the island. Starting with Cagliari, the capital, which from its high and powerful position overlooks the sea to provide a perfect balance between culture and beach, between heritage and gastronomy. A city that, despite having been drawn with the influence of multiple civilizations (and despite being closer to Tunisia than to Rome) does not stop exhibiting that neorealist touch that takes us to a film from the 50s: the hanging clothes, the hum of scooters along the boulevards, the heated conversations in the middle of the street sheltered by the arcades.
In Cagliari you have to visit the San Benedetto market to take home typical delicacies such as honey, pecorino cheese or bottarga, which are salted and dried mullet roe. Also eat at the Framento pizzeria to discover a delicious version of the most universal snack. Or opt for seafood on the terraces of the wonderful Poetto beach. Afterwards, to degrease (not everything is going to be eating), there is nothing like ascending the alleys that lead to the Castelo and delighting in the best views. It is here where we can see the eventful past of this city, which is also shown by the Roman amphitheater and (driving deeper into time) the Punic necropolis of Tuvixeddu, the largest in the Mediterranean basin.
But it is advisable to go inland to discover that other Sardinia, more rustic and genuine. Thus we settled in Trexenta, a hidden region in the southeast of the island, where the fields are covered with olive trees, vineyards and cereals. In this wild and silent area, peaceful towns such as Suelli, Selegas, Guasila, Mandas or Siurgus come across. Together they have launched Saboris Antigus, a kind of consortium to promote visits to this forgotten corner through the recovery of traditional recipes.
Every Sunday, for two months, each of these towns celebrates a festival, in which the streets become a gastronomic market and the locals wear their typical costume. An opportunity not only to connect with the deepest Sardinian roots, but also to discover culinary peculiarities such as casu marzu, a cheese that is fermented with fly larvae that act as natural yeast. Only the most daring palates dare to try this rarity, which is made exclusively in homes and for personal consumption.
But Trexenta is also an area dotted with nuraghi, circular buildings from the Bronze Age, whose function remains a mystery. Defensive watchtowers, ritual enclaves, community centers? In any case, these stone rings that narrow until they leave a gap through which the sky can be seen, are truly beautiful. Especially Piscu’s is spectacular.
Another region in which Sardinia shows its most authentic face is the one that extends to the west around the medieval city of Oristano. Here, in addition to a captivating coast and volcanic mountains (Monti Ferru) with beautiful viewpoints, we find delicious mussels in the Nieddittas farm, one of the main ones in the country, which was born from the hand of some fishermen who grouped together in a cooperative.
Today it is not only a buoyant company that promotes the circular economy, but also a natural enclave that organizes interesting tours to take by minibus or electric bicycle. In its protected ponds you can see flamingos throughout the year, as well as two types of seagulls, cormorants and a whole repertoire of birds that only nest in this place.
Also here we find the oldest winery on the island. It is called Contini, it dates back to 1898 and has the honor of having recovered vernaccia, which is the native variety of Oristano. Getting to know its modern facilities and tasting its award-winning wine is a great plan. As is also finishing this trip on the Sinis peninsula to immerse yourself in a unique landscape: crystalline lagoons, dune fields and beaches where the mistral blows, ideal for water sports. Thus, at the foot of all this beauty, you understand why Sardinia keeps the secret of longevity.
