Xemein is located at a very convenient crossroads to connect the Biscayan industrial network of the interior with the traditional beaches that were once a prominent center for whaling. Cars often speed past the bypass without entering the tiny municipality (formed jointly with the center of Markina).
The curious who stop in Xemein, however, are immediately attracted by a hermitage with a hexagonal plan and minimal belfry that is located in the center. The core, small and harmonious, presents the typical Basque mansions. They are sturdy, whitewashed with some key corner stones visible, and hipped roofs. On the balconies, made of turned wood, some fruits such as peppers or walnuts are still dried today. The concept of autarky remains deeply rooted in Basque society, even when it lives at the frenetic and global rhythms of this century.
If from the outside it already shows signs of being unique, when you enter the hexagonal hermitage of San Miguel de Arretxinaga the surprise is capital: it is confirmed that it presents a Christian temple like there may be no other in the world. Three enormous limestone rocks occupy the main nave, leaning on each other, forming a rough cavern. It is a caramel-colored mineral with traces of iron. The largest of the stones is crowned by a metal bar that holds a brass censer.
The central space is occupied by an image of Saint Michael, undaunted as he eliminates an ugly demon. In each of the three openings formed by the conjunction of the rocks there appears a small altar – also some unroughened stone blocks – dedicated respectively to the leader of the armies of God who gives its name to the hermitage and also to Saint Hyacinth and Saint Poland. So the corridors between the altars and the large rocks are narrow and irregular.
Tradition indicates that people who have difficulty finding a partner must enter here and complete a ritual: they have to go through the three narrow passages three times without supporting themselves with their hands, only making contortions with their body. If the matter is finished with the recitation of three Hail Marys, the discovery of a better half is assured.
It is possible that this rite dates back to pagan times, when some mysterious stones were conducive both to finding a partner and to obtaining fertility in the case of marriages that failed to have children. Later, Christianity adopted the liturgy and adapted it to its dogma, using the saints as intermediaries and creating this hermitage where surely the three limestone rocks were already arranged in the shape of an arch.
San Miguel de Arretxinaga is little known even among the Basques themselves. Hence the frequency of people passing by is really low. Or maybe it’s that faith in starting a romantic relationship now falls more on an app created in California. In any case, the oratory impresses with its mysterious atmosphere and is a good excuse to visit this very untouristy enclave of the Biscayan interior.
Markina-Xemein is well connected both from the coastal Ondarroa (14 km) and from the interior Durango (27 km), in both cases using the BI-633 highway.
