In the summer of 1993, flames devoured much of the Kapellbrücke in Lucerne. It is not clear if it was a poorly extinguished cigarette that ignited the wood of this medieval bridge or if the fire arose from the engine of a boat located under this footbridge with more than six centuries of history. But the fact is that a large part of the structure burned that August night and it took the firefighters several hours to put out every last ember.
Before the fire was extinguished, the inhabitants of Lucerne were already thinking about recovering their emblem. After all, the Kapellbrücke or Chapel Bridge is the oldest wooden bridge in Europe. In addition to one of the longest, exceeding 200 meters to join both banks of the Reuss River, and the icon of the city and also the charismatic image of an entire country, Switzerland. So it is not surprising that no time was lost in its repair and it was reopened in the spring of 1994, 30 years ago now.
It was not the first fire on the viaduct. Since its construction in 1332 it has suffered other damage, especially when it burned in the mid-19th century. By then it was even longer, since the walkway extended 75 meters further along the north bank, precisely where the chapel of San Pedro that gives it its name is located. That area was the most damaged by that incident, so it was decided to fill the river bank and eliminate that section of the bridge, leaving it at its current 204 meters in length.
However, the Lucerne Bridge is not only of incalculable value due to its age and dimensions. Also its shape makes it an exceptional construction. Unlike other bridges that tend to opt for the shortest and most direct route possible between the two banks they are to join, the Kapellbrücke is developed in several sections with a diagonal design, hence its admirable length.
It is as if its builders had chosen to complicate their lives, designing a bridge longer than necessary to demonstrate their mastery of engineering and carpentry, since they used different types of wood in its construction. So the entire structure is supported by dozens of oak wood piles anchored to the bed of the Reuss, while they covered the long route with a roof made of lighter fir and spruce boards.
We must not forget that we are in Central Switzerland, a beautiful place for its mountain landscapes, but also a climate that can be very unpleasant on cold, rainy and snowy days. So they conceived this walk over the river as an arcade where they could shelter from inclement weather. But not only that. Over time, in the 17th century, they took advantage of the roof to house more than 100 paintings telling the history of the city. However, many of those paintings were lost in the fateful fire of 1993.
Stopping in front of the paintings that still remain is not the only stop you make when touring the Kapellbrücke. Also, more or less halfway along the riverbed, the bridge connects with a stone tower. It is the Wasserturm or Water Tower, curiously before the bridge. It had already risen above the waters of the river in the 1300s and some say that it served as a lighthouse, that is, a gigantic light to indicate the neighboring mouth of the Reuss into the great lake of the Four Cantons, whose width is displayed just a few meters from here. .
Such a tower reaches 34 meters in height and its fortress appearance is indisputable, since from the beginning it would have been part of the defensive framework of Lucerne, which still preserves part of its walls and other towers integrated into the urban core. Defenses in line with the relevance of a place that has become an important commercial road junction. Lucerne was always an obligatory stop for goods traveling from Germanic lands to Italy, and vice versa. Even more so when the nearby Saint Gotthard mountain pass was opened.
This prosperity caused the city’s most attractive monuments to be built, from the Rathaus complex with its marvelous Clock Tower to the Jesuit Church, which was the first baroque temple in Switzerland, passing through the large mansions in the main squares. from Lucerne. By the way, constructions that practically always transform their facades into large outdoor frescoes with paintings alluding to their owners.
That is to say, this Swiss enclave has everything that is expected of Swiss destinations. Historic architecture overflowing with elegance, a large lake where you can sail between snow-capped mountains and postcard-perfect landscapes. But it also has one of the most sought-after photos in the country. The spectacular view of the Kapellbrücke and the Water Tower over the River Reuss and against the backdrop of Mount Pilatus. It is believed that only the perfect alpine geometry of the Matterhorn receives as many photos as this frame from Lucerne.
The Kapellbrücke overshadows other attractions in the city. For example, the KKL Culture and Congress Center designed by the prestigious French architect Jean Nouvel on the shores of Lake Lucerne, or the charm of the unique Lion monument that Mark Twain described as “the saddest and most moving piece of rock in the world.” world”.
Most visitors to Lucerne come to cross the Chapel Bridge. But they soon get a very pleasant surprise when they discover another historic bridge just a few meters upstream. It is the Spreuerbrücke or Wheat Bridge, next to the old mills. It is somewhat shorter and also of respectable age since it was built in 1408. And like its older brother, it houses paintings inside. But they are more disturbing. These panels capture the dance of death, inspired by the Black Death that in those years gripped life throughout Europe.
