The Carbó Capdevila family returns to market the oldest Catalan sparkling wine on the market, from 1975. It is a product that precedes the creation of the DO Cava, which they described as “the most valued and appreciated vintage”. At the request of the co-founder of these cellars, Teresa Blancher i Solanes, in 1976 this Reserva from the Can Canjon family estate in Teià (Maresme) was bottled. It was here that the family that owns it began to produce its first bottles of quality sparkling wine in 1940.
Teresa Blancher, after verifying the high quality of this vintage, decided to reserve a total of 2,070 bottles, “to enjoy with her friends.” It was the last reserve bottled by the co-founder of this winery. “After 25 years and after some doubts, but also supported by friends, family and friends who have had the great privilege of being able to taste it”, the Carbó Capdevila family decided to market in September 1999, taking advantage of the sales boom unleashed with the turn of the millennium, a total of 1,537 bottles.
The decision was made after verifying that “the vast majority of the 533 bottles tasted by the family maintained an exceptional bouquet.” They already warned in 1999, however, that due to its age “it can bring many surprises, both positive (most) and negative”. For this reason, they did not hide from their clients even then that “we do not know how the bottle you currently have is”, and they added that “we hope and wish that you have made the right choice”.
This Carbó Capdevila Reserva 1975 was marketed in 1999 at a price of 3,000 pesetas (18 euros) and now, the last 307 bottles have just been put up for sale at 250 euros. They had not been sold since 2003. Josep Carbó, Blancher’s commercial director, recalls that his father did not want to sell all the bottles as he saw that there were fewer and fewer left. In fact, initially his father said they would not sell, but he ended up giving in. Josep Carbó has no doubts that “it was a wise move to sell this part of history”, and points out that “our clients enjoyed it”.
The last available bottles have now been put back on sale in a very limited way and on demand. According to those responsible for the cellars, an incredulous former customer wanted to compare this Catalan sparkling wine with one of the most famous champagnes, a 1970 Grande Cuvée from Krug, to convince himself that Blancher’s product “has nothing to envy”.
This predecessor of cava is made (at that time the company was called Espumosos de Cava S.A.) with a base of white pansa (xarel lo) from Teià, and with macabeo and parellada from Penedès. This sparkling Brut, closed with a cork stopper and a metal clip, was slaughtered more than 40 years ago (in 1978), and has been preserved in the stillness and shadows of its Teià cellars. Initially it was marketed with a singular metal case made of galvanized sheet metal, with a wire and lead closure. It shows an amber color and its carbonic is already very tired, but surprisingly integrated. And it is perplexing how well it has held up, with oxidative notes of dried apricots, dried fruit (especially walnuts), toffee and honey, and still good acidity. It also exhibits hints of moisture, a saline patina, and some creaminess.
Josep Carbó affirms that “it is exceptional, with improper aromas and flavors in such an old sparkling wine”. From the Blancher cellars they recommend drinking it at a temperature between 5 and 6º C. “to be able to better appreciate its virtues”. The cork must be removed with great care, since there is a high possibility that it will break (an accident that can be resolved with a corkscrew). Josep Carbó likes to harmonize it with a wild boar civet, with rabbit with picada or with a roasted Penedès mute duck.
In 1935, Antonio Capdevila Pujol and his wife Teresa Blancher Solanes acquired ownership of the farm and Masía Can Canjon in the municipality of Teià. They did it to be able to make one of their dreams come true: to make their own wines and cavas. Antonio Capdevila was united by a good friendship with the oenologist Ángel Escudé, who advised them on the first steps to be taken.
First of all, they modified the farm, leveling it to build different terraces on seven levels, eliminating the slopes to be able to carry out agricultural work more comfortably. When the first vines began to bear fruit, they produced the first effervescent wine that rested for many years in the cellar of Masía Can Canjón, built in 1848. The success of this sparkling wine, and the continuous visits to Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, during which he established a friendship with the Planas family (vine growers and bulk wine dealers since the late 1800s and first manufacturers of bottled wine alcohol for pharmacies) who encouraged them to build Cavas Blancher in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia.
The construction of the winery began in 1952, located in the center of the town and facing north to take advantage of the fresh air coming from the mountains of Montserrat, ideal for the temperature of a winery that was built with the typical Catalan vault. It is divided into five floors, the last two underground (where the natural temperature ranges between 16 and 21 degrees Celsius, which is ideal for aging cavas and wines).
In 1959 Antonio Capdevila Pujol entrusted the management of the new company to his nephew Josep Carbó Capdevila and to what would later become his wife, Mercè Planas Oliver, who were part of the project from the start of construction of the winery. With the grapes from the Can Canjon farmhouse, and those purchased from different viticulturists in Penedès, they made the first vinifications in the cellars themselves. The first print runs began in a very traditional way and in 1959 the first bottle came onto the market under the name of Extra Semi, in 1960 the Sparkling Semi and in 1961 the Brut Natural. It was at the end of the 70s of the last century, and thanks to the experience gained, when Cavas Blancher launched its first advertising campaigns.
At the beginning of the 70s and after the first advertisements, the company began to look for new markets outside of Catalonia. The Valencian Community, Andalusia and Madrid were the first places where Blancher established himself, taking advantage of the tourist boom of that time. The first export to Italy was also made. Due to the great sales success, the range of products was expanded, launching the Gran Reserva Semi and Rosado Semi on the market. They also began to bottle the first ½ and ¼ liter bottles. In 1972, it was the pioneer company in transporting the harvested grapes in small-capacity plastic boxes to guarantee the highest quality.
At the beginning of the 80s, with the approval of the DO Cava, a new era began. The Brut types began to be marketed with great force. In 1984, the second and third generation of the Carbó family wanted to pay the greatest tribute to their aunt, Teresa Blancher i Solanes, who died very recently, and her husband Antonio Capdevila i Pujol, founders of Cavas Blancher, launching cava onto the market. Brut de la Tieta (although it has always been Brut Nature Gran Reserva), the most awarded and best reviewed wine from the house. In 1985, the third generation of the family, some Carbó Planas brothers who have lived with cava since its birth, began to collaborate on a professional level. Ramón Carbó is a manager and winemaker, Enric is a winemaker and salesperson, and Josep is the sales manager. In 1993 they began to reform the winery, and in 1995 they inaugurated the Blancher museum on the occasion of its 40th anniversary.
From the late 1990s to the early 2000s, they began to replant their vineyards. Blancher has specialized in the production of long-aging cavas, still wines and cava vinegars. They make 15,000 bottles of still wine a year and 160,000 of cava. They have five references of wine, eight of cava and two of vinegar. They export 20% of their production, mainly to the United States, Belgium and Sweden. Its own vineyards, which total 9.5 hectares, are located in Teià and Vilobí del Penedès. In addition, this year Blancher has been distinguished with the Integral Producer seal by the DO Cava. And wine tourism has been his big bet. Today some 11,000 wine tourists and 4,500 schoolchildren visit them annually.
