“I think that in this totally digital world one thing is missing: the sensuality of contact with objects.” The phrase is by Bret Easton Ellis, author of the recent Los destrozos and the at the time very transgressive Less than zero, and opens the pages of the book Luxe et Digital (Dunod Editions) which, under the direction of Eric Briones, marketing expert and communication, analyzes the strategies and new territories of a luxury that explores new frontiers.
The love story between beauty and luxury goes back a long way – both so intangible, powerful and coveted – but in recent times it is redefining its codes and multiplying its importance. Shakira would say that beauty is important, and so it is. The State of Fashion: Beauty report, published jointly by The Business of Fashion and consulting firm McKinsey
With what arguments? The very exclusive ingredients of cosmetics and perfumes count, of course, although perhaps the key lies in that contact with the objects that Easton Ellis claimed. Specifically, in products that go far beyond excellence in their use to become a true vindication of good design, on the one hand, and the work of artisan artists who can turn a lipstick or a bottle of perfume into a real gem. The uniqueness of haute couture is transferred to beauty and what was once disposable can today be unique pieces with no expiration date.
If perfume has been the great ambassador of fashion in beauty – Paul Poiret and his Rosine already sensed the way at the beginning of the 20th century – now it is makeup that takes over. Hermès debuted with lipsticks that cost around seventy euros and brands such as Carolina Herrera, Prada and more recently Rabanne have not been slow to follow in its wake and join long-standing beauty brands such as Chanel, Armani, YSL or Dior. Tradition, innovation and uniqueness – personalization and meticulous design are its hallmarks – for a rechargeable proposal that has put an end forever to the outdated use-and-throw gesture. In this context, some go further and directly target collectors with ideas and materials with added value.
What is considered the most expensive lipstick in history, Guerlain’s KissKiss Gold and Diamonds, cost 38,000 euros. Its case, with 199 18-karat diamonds set in gold, could be personalized with precious stones such as rubies and emeralds. Ultra exclusive. For this Christmas, Guerlain is also betting on a very special edition of lipstick, with a casing that reinterprets the house’s emblematic bee with embedded gems and the art of Turkish jewelry designer Begün Khan. The Begün Khan Rouge G Fantasy Bee gift set is an exquisite jewelry box where the gold casing stands out against black velvet accompanied by three shades of Rouge G, the matte and timeless Red Rubi 880, the elegant 03 Rosewood and the rich satin 214 Brick Red . It costs 890 euros and there will only be 250 worldwide. They will be sold out.
Lipsticks seem to be the most applied in the new trend that advocates craftsmanship and manual work in parallel with effective and pleasant formulas that can include microparticles of 24-karat gold, such as Rouge Premier, the latest proposal from Dior. “I was inspired by the universe of haute couture to create a unique lipstick. Experience and craftsmanship are its pillars. The formula, shade selection and packaging are the closest thing to a couture lip concept. It is definitive and exquisite. “When dreams dress your lips,” says Peter Philips, creative and image director of Dior makeup.
Turn an everyday gesture into something special. Every detail counts so that a lipstick costs 500 euros and becomes a porcelain object handmade by the 160-year-old Maison Bernardaud and printed with the gray Toile de Jouy print, which Christian Dior chose for the walls. of the first Colifichets boutique at number 30 Avenue Montaigne. A very limited edition, refillable with 12 shades, with a Versailles touch that transitions from nostalgia to the future without blinking. The French brand maintains its commitment to the most exclusive luxury with D-air, a beautiful and sophisticated high-tech diffuser to aromatize the home with five fragrances from its Privée collection.
With more competition in the sector, perfumes refuse to lose their status as standard-bearers of luxury. Looking ahead to Christmas, Guerlain is betting heavily on exceptional pieces that reinvent its heritage and legacy. The artist Begün Khan also turns the House’s legendary bee bottle, which this year celebrates its 170th anniversary, into a jewel, decorating it with a beetle, her good luck charm. It is handmade in the jeweler’s workshop in Istanbul and there will only be 40 in the world, at a price of 18,000 euros. The Imagine Millésime 2023 edition of the same bottle, adorned with a gold-plated bronze bee and enhanced by 37 hand-cut gems, is a limited edition of 4,515 units (900 euros) and the jewel plates of fantastic animals that adorn its collection l ‘Art et le Matière (180 pieces of each animal) is around 500 euros.
While large luxury conglomerates like Kering gain momentum and create new beauty divisions, the most cutting-edge cosmetic brands in research are also joining the trend of special editions, personalized experiences and maximum exclusivity. La Prairie has reorganized its offer to focus on the highest range of its products. Their Skin Caviar Luxe Cream (50ml) now comes with a quartzite vanity tray and matching spatula for cream application created by award-winning designer Sabine Marcelis. A limited edition of 300 units at 1,830 euros to sublimate a ritual that is basically everyday.
Clé de Peau Beauté, Shiseido’s most premium brand, also turned its bestsellers, The Lipstick and the sumptuous la Crème, which costs over 900 euros, into high jewelry to celebrate its 40th anniversary. Jeweler Elie Top reinterpreted the Sun and the Moon in gold, silver and diamonds as a metaphor for the luminosity that is the brand’s watchword. All pieces are made by hand and only three complete sets can be made each month.
“The richest people in the world spend more than $350 billion on luxury goods annually,” quantifies The State of Fashion: Beauty report. In its analysis, it states that these buyers, who seek top-notch products and experiences, have limited options in the field of beauty and, as a result, their relative spending on skin care, cosmetics and other items is well below what they would expect. that they allocate to comparable spending categories. They are attracted to status symbols, such as limited edition products that can be considered works of art.
And beauty, which has seen ultra-luxury as a means of expansion, is willing to give it to them and, in the process, take advantage of it to raise the reputation of exclusivity and quality of its brands. The sector is an accelerator of the visibility and expansion of brands and luxury just as itbags were before.
Luxury overdose? You don’t have to be a billionaire to know its universe first-hand, you just have to go from ultra-luxury to its most basic products. Search on TikTok