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It is wonderful to be able to walk through a capital full of history, known as the city of culture. Located in the center of Spain and on the banks of the Pisuerga River, Valladolid, the protagonist today in La Vanguardia’s Readers’ Photos, has an extensive artistic heritage.
It’s funny how every time I’ve visited, I’ve been able to enjoy its rich history while relaxing touring those green areas that constitute a true lung for the city.
On the other hand, gastronomy offers the possibility of tasting delicious tapas for those who, like me, are lovers of tapas, and dishes such as roast lamb, ribs and a wide variety of pastries for those with a sweet tooth who consider dessert essential. in the food.
Valladolid has a rich history for more than 2000 years. In the Middle Ages it became an important commercial and cultural center. Later, in the 16th century, under the reign of Philip III and under the influence of the Duke of Lerma, it became the capital of Spain for five years, from 1601 to 1606. It was a prosperous and cultured city, seat of the courts of Castile.
The wedding of the Catholic Monarchs and the birth of some monarchs took place here. In addition, it was the place where Christopher Columbus spent his last days and where a debate took place about the rights of native peoples in the Spanish colonies of America.
I will start by naming one of the jewels that, surely, constitutes a meeting point for many people: its Plaza Mayor, the first great Renaissance square that was built in Spain. In the center, the statue of Count Ansúrez, founder of the city, stands out.
In the 16th century there was a fire and, after it, it was Philip II who gave Valladolid the first regular main square in Spain, which was later copied in other cities such as Madrid and Salamanca.
To me it seemed glowing during the day and with beautiful lighting at night. Another very popular square when the vegetable and flower market is set up is the Plaza de España. The Bank of Spain building is located here, along with several statues and a monumental fountain.
One of the spectacular moments during the guided tour of the historic center was arriving at San Pablo Square, where there are several buildings of special interest. In one of them, in the Pimentel Palace, Philip II was born.
Currently, it is the headquarters of the Valladolid Provincial Council. There is also the Royal Palace. Within its walls, and during the five years in which the Court was in Valladolid, Philip III lived and King Philip IV was born. Previously, it was occupied by Charles I and Philip II, and later, during the Spanish War of Independence in 1808, it was occupied by Napoleon Bonaparte.
I thought it was wonderful to see the decorative details on the façade and portico of St. Paul’s Church, both in the Elizabethan Gothic style. It is considered one of the most representative buildings of this city and one of the most beautiful buildings in the world in Gothic style.
La Antigua, a church with a slender tower more than 55 meters high that reminded me of the Romanesque bell towers of the Boí valley, is one of the emblems of Valladolid. It is spectacular in a complex with a Gothic façade that at no time detracts from its beauty.
As for the cathedral, when I looked at it from the outside, I admit that I was surprised and felt disconcerted, once again, accustomed to the fact that the cathedrals of Castilla-León are medieval and this is a good example of Herrerian architecture.
It made me relive those times of Habsburg Spain, especially the reign of Philip II. Its construction was interrupted in the 17th century due to lack of budget; That’s where the name “the unfinished” comes from.
Inside, I was impressed by the gigantic semicircular arches that rest on very strong square pillars. The altarpiece by Juan de Juni, located in the main chapel, is notable.
Behind the cathedral is the University, a place I wanted to pay attention to and not miss any details, since a good friend studied there. This building, currently the headquarters of the Faculty of Law, captivates with its beautiful baroque façade and the entrance decorated with stained glass and tiles.
The National Museum of Sculpture was the cherry on top of the trip. I remember that the guide who accompanied us on the tourist visit said that it was essential to enter to see some of its wonders such as the Main Altarpiece and the Stallery of San Benito el Real, the processional steps and many other things. I was shocked by that large collection of polychrome wood that, apparently, is one of the most important and valuable on the continent.
A walk along the Gutiérrez Passage helped me discover some covered shopping galleries, imitating those that emerged in Paris as a consequence of the Industrial Revolution of the 19th century. Here, apart from the shops, there is a statue of Mercury, god of commerce.
As a lover of literature that I am, I did not miss two very important museums in this city: the Cervantes house museum and the Zorrilla house museum. The first is highly recommended to get an idea of ??our literary treasure and to be able to immerse yourself in the environment in which Cervantes’ best work, Don Quixote of La Mancha, was created. It was here that he wrote the second part of this book. I have always liked to know the environments in which certain writers created great works of literature.
As for the Zorrilla house museum, it is a very well preserved 19th century bourgeois house where the writer was born and lived after his stay in Madrid and Paris. Things that belonged to him are on display: books, furniture, awards, publications… The luck, while visiting this emblematic place, was the culture and enthusiasm that the guide showed, which made the visit sublime. Valladolid pays tribute to Zorrilla with a promenade, a theater named after him, a plaza and a soccer stadium.
I could not end this chronicle without referring to one of the most notable buildings, the Academy of Cavalry, a beautiful example of Neoplateresque architecture. It brings together documents, weapons and objects that aim to remember the glories of Spanish chivalry.
Next door is Campo Grande, the largest urban park in this city. I was lucky enough to walk a short distance and, on my way to go to the train station that bears the same name, I was able to say goodbye to a squirrel that approached me in search of food. Two peacocks also extended their curious fans, perhaps as a mating ritual or as a threat to other rival males when protecting their territory.
This trip, scheduled to be done with friends, was, among other things, to visit this city whose importance is reflected in sayings such as “If the world were an egg, Valladolid would be the yolk” or “If you want to know about history, you should know Valladolid.” .
With “There I am,” an expression from Valladolid, I say goodbye to this modern city of about 300,000 inhabitants that looks forward to the future.
