Mariola’s sage is an emblem among the more than 1,200 plant species cataloged in this mountainous territory halfway between Alicante and Valencia. So much so that his last name evokes the mountains declared a natural park for more than 20 years. But not only that. In addition, this plant becomes a metaphor for the sensations caused by the Sierra de Mariola.
This sage has always been valued in the Valencian towns as a fabulous popular remedy for almost any ailment. In infusion, in poultices or by distilling its essential oil, it has relieved digestion and circulatory problems, cured scars, tempered nerves, healed pharyngitis, lowered fever, as well as calming women’s hormonal disorders. A true panacea for health!
This is also how the entire Sierra de Mariola can be considered. A green balm behind the Costa Blanca. An unexpected and quiet refuge away from mass tourism despite the short distance to an epicenter of the Mediterranean summer resort. But if you have to bring a swimsuit and patience to the neighboring coast to find a spot on beaches and restaurants, whoever goes to the Sierra de Mariola should not forget walking boots and open your senses to soak up the natural environment.
You have to let yourself be enveloped by a rich and healing nature. No fanfare. Nothing to look for vertiginous paths. Here all are friendly paths, many times under the shade of the abundant Aleppo pine, and other times through unique forests such as the Agres tejera, the southernmost redoubt of yews in Europe. While other itineraries run through the Mediterranean aroma provided by thyme, rosemary, chamomile, rock tea and of course Mariola’s sage, even more attractive in its purple spring and early summer bloom.
Nor should you go to the Sierra de Mariola with the desire to tread epic peaks. The highest peak is Montcabrer, at 1,390 meters above sea level. An ascent that from the town of Cocentaina is done partially by car, except for the last section from the hermitage of Sant Cristófol. And although it is a modest height, the panoramic view from the top overlooks a large part of the Alicante lands and the south of Valencia. By the way, if you go up in winter, it is mandatory to equip yourself for the cold and snow.
It usually snows in these parts. Although it would do so earlier, as witnessed by the huge snowfields or cellars scattered throughout the mountains. Cylindrical cellars excavated in the limestone rock and which sink to a depth of 12 m, such as the Arquejada cellar in Agres where ice was stored for months. A practice that goes back centuries, when refrigerators were unimaginable but the conservative and even healing value of ice was already known.
And where there is snow, there is water. The natural springs and river sources are one of the charms of this part of the Levant. The Serpis river and its tributary Molinar or Clariano are born with the contribution of the Uxola. All of them reach the sea further north, already in the province of Valencia. While the Vinalopó arises in several sources, such as the Font de la Coveta and from there it heads south, towards the salt flats of Santa Pola, next to the Mediterranean.
Such an abundance of water provides the plant variety. And there are even botanical micro-reserves, such as the Font del Molí Mató, where an exuberant flora of mosses and ferns grows on the tuff rock. Although not only plants enjoy the water, man also knew how to take advantage of the force of these flows by installing mills on its banks, such as those made of paper, stamped or for smoking, which are the stars of the route that begins at the Molí l ‘Ombria at the foot of the town of Banyeres de Mariola.
Banyeres with its castle in the upper part and its various museums is one of the most visited towns. But all the towns that surround the natural park are of interest. From the charm of the rural and isolated in Agres or Alfafara, to the urban bustle of Alcoi, passing through the archaeological sites that surround Concentaina or the aroma of traditional industry that is breathed in Muro de Alcoi.
Although if there is an attractive population that is Bocairent. No matter where you look. If you opt for the overall panorama, you will discover a compact town, with earthy tones whose facades are crowded together and overlook the Ontinyet ravine. But this charm is not lost when walking through its medieval streets until you reach the Church of the Assumption or the Plaza del Ajuntament, which is accessed through an arch that is actually a unique aqueduct.
The water, always the water in Sierra de Mariola! Of course, in Bocairent there is no flatness. The streets extend the mountain routes. And therefore they are part of the same experience of beauty and health. Just like Mariola’s sage.
