Arriving at the town of Santanyí is quite a declaration of intent: centuries-old olive trees and carob trees frame a simple secondary road protected by margins, bare stone walls and dirt fields where sheep graze peacefully. A small eighties-style sign announces arrival at this small town located in the southeast of the island of Majorca.
Parking in the vicinity of the historic center is easy, a good sign considering that we are in the middle of August. The cobbled floor, like that of The Wizard of Oz, takes us to a serene and bohemian atmosphere, in an environment of rural Majorca of yesteryear, with typical two-story houses with green shutters and balconies, narrow streets and many corners with charm.
Art is very present in this small town of about 12,000 inhabitants. There are several galleries that display their creations on the street. In one of them portraits embodied in paintings and vessels are exhibited. “This town attracts many foreign artists, who are looking for a quieter and more relaxed life than in their European cities, it is also true that there are quite a few foreigners with purchasing power who buy the works of art”, explains one of the vendors.
The historic center invites you to explore it slowly, without rushing. The Porta Murada, dating from the 16th century, reminds us of its warlike past, as it was part of a wall that protected the city from attacks by the Turks. Its yellowish color stands out, typical of the famous Santanyí stone, very common in the construction of houses on the island, and which makes up a chromatic unit in urban centers.
Nearby is the Town Hall building, which shares its Santanyí stone façade, and there is a useful tourist information point. A few meters away, at the nerve center of the town, stands the church of Sant Andreu, a beautiful example of Baroque construction in which a tower topped with a pinnacle and two splendid palm trees that welcome newcomers stand out. Inside, we cannot help but notice an impressive organ suspended on the wall that dates from the 17th century.
Several restaurants with large terraces are spread out on Plaza Mayor street, this is where the pulse of this small town is measured. Do not miss the opportunity to try the typical Mallorcan variat, a dish that includes small portions of Russian salad, pica-pica (Majorcan-style cuttlefish), Mallorcan fried food made with pork liver and the famous meatballs in sauce. You must also try the famous pà amb oli, loaves of brown bread accompanied by Mallorcan olives, sausages and local cheeses.
We are not going to deny it, going shopping in Santanyí is a joy, there are many small boutiques selling local products with soul. Leather is worked, linen clothes, there are also many gourmet gastronomic products shops. For example, the Audali craft shop specializes in Majorcan signs, essential for an island outfit. They are palm heart baskets, very simple and comfortable, which were traditionally used to carry vegetables, but which are currently used to go to the beach.
Another classic stop is the curious cowboy-style leather boot shop offered by Tony Mora. It is a plea in favor of character and creativity. The classic brown ones with heels are sold, but they come in a multitude of colors and shapes, made by hand and with top quality materials. In Santanyí the stores take great care of window dressing, which is a sensual and careful visual proposal. Another example is Terra Origens, a space that offers products made of wicker, cushions, hats and a wide range of decoration products.
Much of the fascination that this town generates is that halo of Mediterranean authenticity, seeking the essence of less is more. Between three and five in the afternoon the streets are deserted, there are no cars in the center, and suddenly a bicycle leaning against the wall without a lock or an old woman dressed in mourning walking along the sidewalk, scenes that could be Perfectly from the sixties.
When the sun shines you have to make a tactical stop. The Laudat Restaurant, at the foot of the church of Sant Andreu, offers an unforgettable gastronomic experience. Simple, Mediterranean food, made with local raw materials of the best quality, tasty and authentic; among its dishes: pork cheek, turbot fillet with polenta and fennel pil-pil or octopus carpaccio with celery and Parmesan vinaigrette, absolutely delicious. And although the restaurant produces its own wine, it has a rich and varied cellar of local and national wines.
Santanyí’s location is part of its charm. It is 10 minutes from some of the most beautiful coves on the island, such as Llombards cove, Caló des Moro or the Santanyí cove itself, perfect for going with the family, with parking areas, bars, and a multitude of picturesque scenes to feed photos and stories on Instagram.
A visit to Santanyí should include its traditional weekly market, it is one of the most famous on the island, it is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. There is no shortage of sobrassada, sausages or camaiots, oils, wines and olives are also sold at will, the same goes for the typical ceramics or the famous shoes of the island. The biggest challenge will be to fit everything in the suitcase.
