With seven Michelin stars distributed among his restaurants, including the three-starred Quique Dacosta in Denia, perhaps rice is not the first word that comes to mind when talking about this renowned chef. Although it is easy to understand, it would be a mistake because this product is one of the pillars of Dacosta’s cuisine. His book Arroces Contemporáneos (2005) is an indisputable reference on the subject. For years he has defended good paella in London with ArrosQD and he has recently launched “A Fuego”, a range of rice dishes ready to finish and enjoy at home. So there is no one better than him to help us improve our homemade paellas and rice dishes.
A paella – that container we call a paella pan outside of Valencia – between 38 and 42 centimeters in diameter and about 20 minutes is all we will need to have a Valencian paella ready that would easily rival the best ones served out there. At least in Barcelona. It may sound like an exaggeration, but we already verified it a long time ago when we compared some of the best paella preparations on the market with quite notable results in some cases.
The new “A fuego” by Quique Dacosta plays in that league of the best and, in fact, aims for the highest. Respecting the simple instructions and times, it is perfect. Pour the two jars with broth and ingredients, wait for it to start boiling, add the rice (albufera variety and previously smoked) and do not get nervous with the last minutes in which it seems that everything is going to burn, but they are key for the characteristic socarrat.
The pack for about four servings costs 47 euros. It is neither nor does it pretend to be cheap. “At this moment it is a price adjusted to the costs of a product that facilitates and brings the culture of paella to our homes,” defends Dacosta. He remembers that, at least in his restaurants, the serving of paella does not cost that price.
“A Fuego brings added value to the market. In 20 minutes at home you have it ready. I am also convinced that the world of retail (restaurants, hotels, beach bars…) with less and less time and less manpower will be an extraordinary wild card for its cards,” he comments.
A shortcut for rice on a special day or, as the chef himself explains, a good pantry stock to improvise a paella (or rice with ribs, or black rice, the other two recipes that make up the A Fuego range) in any moment.
But, thinking about everyday rice dishes or those who want to make the recipe from scratch, Dacosta also shares some tips. Starting with the best variety of rice for cooking. Is any one from the supermarket worth it or is it better to invest a little more in some specific ones?
“Any of the three varieties of the Valencia DO such as Bombón, Bomba, and J Sendra work. In any case, I wouldn’t skimp on the quality of the rice. If in the end you have to add more fish, more seafood, more truffle, more mushrooms to give it flavor, it will surely be more expensive than if we buy proper rice,” he points out.
There is not much to do about the type of fire because everyone has whatever it is at home. Better gas than induction, and better wood than gas, confirms. Not only because of the power of the fire, but because of that smoky flavor of the wood that in the case of its preparations is already incorporated into the rice.
But what is debatable is the amount of rice. Or, rather, the disposition. Single-layer rice or more depth as was common until recently? The 120 grams per serving are clear. From there, it’s time to distribute them and the diameter of the paella used will determine the thickness. What is better?
“A Pinoso rice is a single layer with a very large paella, and a Valencian paella is not so fine because it has a series of ingredients such as chicken, rabbit, carafo, Bajoqueta, etc. that provide volume. A fine rice does not have to be less generous, it is just a question of the diameter of the paella itself, the quantity is adjusted to a portion,” defends the chef born in Extremadura, but raised in Valencia and who has been cooking since he was 14 years old around the stoves.
Another recurring doubt is the point of rice. Compared to the more cooked grain that is popular in Valencian lands, a certain fashion for rice, let’s say, “al dente” has spread. Although, as Quique Dacosta is quick to correct, that concept applied to rice is not correct.
“The term “al dente” is applied, for example, to vegetables, and occurs because they undergo an organoleptic evolution in short cooking and an evolution of sugars, texture and flavor,” he explains. But it is not applicable to rice, because the center of the grain has not evolved or absorbed flavor.
“The starch inside remains raw, there has been no organoleptic evolution inside. Valencian paella always has a higher gelation point that allows the rice grain to absorb in its entirety,” he clarifies.
And the broth? “A good broth is essential. But it is not an ingredient but a preparation,” Dacosta clarifies before giving a quick recipe. We take note: if we are going to make fish rice, with its bones we make a fumet boiled for 20 minutes with enough water, which we will use later for the paella.
“A subtle broth of salt, flavor, with its sautéed onion, garlic, a ñora, a little paprika, saffron… Saffron for its flavor, aroma and color is essential for me, like the smoked paprika from La Vera and a ripe tomato for the stir-fry,” he details.
In short: for rice for two, 1.4l of broth, 240 grams of rice in a 42 centimeter paella. And 18 minutes of cooking of the aforementioned Bomba or Senia varieties.
“And if you don’t have time to make a good broth, I recommend that, for the modest price of 11.75 euros per person, you buy A Fuego,” he concludes. For our part, we can confirm that it is the best paella we have ever made at home. Although, of course, in this case the credit is not ours.
