Levitating on two wheels powered by your own body is one of those simple pleasures that science has not yet been able to supplant. If it also happens in an idyllic setting with pristine, well-paved streets and bike lanes everywhere, it’s a winning bet. Finally, we must not forget the basic principle of any traveler: “wherever you go, do what you seeâ€. And the first thing that already attracts attention in the Norwegian capital is the huge number of people who ride bicycles.
There are private companies, but the public bicycle service Oslo City Bike (Oslo Bysykkle) is the most practical and economical. You have to download the application on your mobile and register with an email. With the same application and by geolocation you unlock the bicycle in one of the 270 stations that it has distributed throughout the city. The price for 24 hours is 69 Norwegian crowns (about 6 euros), a very interesting price in one of the most expensive capitals in the world. The condition is that before an hour has passed you change bikes, otherwise you must pay an extra 15 Norwegian kroner (1.3 euros) for every 15 minutes.
This chronicle begins shooting at Dronning Eufemias Gate, the street where Norwegians display all their financial muscle. The great avenue is crisscrossed by silent electric trams, on each side stand robust buildings with a markedly contemporary design. Glass and steel predominate, there are geometric, undulating facades, others continue the austere line of the Bahuaus, a true delight for any architecture fan. They are mainly offices, but there are also luxury apartments and restaurants.
One of the most celebrated and reviewed restaurants is Code, with one Michelin star. Its sophisticated and almost mysterious environment fascinates, where black, gold and wood finishes prevail. Its seafood is famous, such as the lobster roll or the baked cod with soy apple puree and hazelnuts. Likewise, its peanut cookie with chocolate ganache and vanilla ice cream is succulent. There is also the option of going for a drink at sunset and enjoying its terrace.
A few minutes later we find ourselves face to face with a monumental construction that absorbs any line of flight: the Oslo Opera House. As with the one in Sydney, it is one of those buildings that justify a visit to a city, and that chisels the character of a city. With a certain distance it evokes the silhouette of a ship anchored in front of the Oslo fjord. It was designed by the Norwegian architecture studio Snohetta and opened in 2008. The exterior part is white and combines steel and glass, giving it a feeling of weightlessness. The abundant reflections from the windows allow specular games to be played. A large ramp at the entrance invites visitors to talk, play and walk like a tightrope walker across the roofs of this unique building.
Just in front, recently arrived and eager to attract attention, stands the splendid Munch Museum, inaugurated in 2021. This is another of those architectural works that unleash emotions. It has received fierce criticism and high praise for its twisted and awkward ways. The proposal for the new headquarters was entrusted to the Spanish studio Herreros arquitectos, who have drawn a silhouette of concave and difficult lines, just as the tormented soul of the author was.
The interior is rabidly modern. Some automatic stairs act as a backbone, connecting the different floors that offer the largest exhibition of works by Edward Munch (Loten 1863-Oslo 1944). There are more than a thousand paintings and 15,000 drawings that the author donated to the city during his lifetime. The Scream, the painting that he made him known worldwide, is in the National Museum.
There is a desire to take advantage of daylight. The months of May and August offer the greatest amount of sunlight. It is at this time when its people storm the streets with a special impetus, there are street musicians and plays, concerts and public events. They are aware of the long winter that awaits them.
Change bike and continue the cycling adventure. In the direction of what they call the Sentrum we arrive at the noble area of ​​the city: neoclassical buildings, embassies, and wide sidewalks reminiscent of Paris. Inevitably you will find a large garden -the city is not very large, about 600,000 inhabitants-, which marks the beginning of the territories of the royal palace of Oslo, the residence of the Norwegian kings.
To be able to contemplate it, you first have to go through some pleasant trails where you can let your cycling passion take you away, no matter where you go, you will end up at the entrance of the royal palace. The absence of great security measures is surprising, beyond a small unit of the royal guard. Actually, we are in one of the safest countries in the world, a fact that is perceived from the moment you land.
It’s time to eat something, following the route to the famous Vigeland park we find ourselves face to face with the Uranienborg neighborhood, with a wide range of bars, cinemas and restaurants. Publiko (Vibes gate, 11) is a trendy restaurant, with the typical minimalist Nordic atmosphere and a generous menu of Norwegian dishes. Campo di Fiori (Josefines gate, 23) is another very popular place, with a hipster atmosphere and a careful selection of music. Its cuisine is Mediterranean, you cannot miss its famous burrata with cotto, steamed mussels or its delicious pickled meats.
After satiating the stomach, there are still hours of daylight left and the desire to continue discovering Oslo. Vigeland Park is our next stop. Again a large park with dirt paths. There are benches, toilets, fountains to drink water and above all sculptures, many sculptures. There are more than 200, they reflect on and revolve around the human condition. There are adults hugging each other, children squatting, making a fuss, mothers with children, groups of human beings huddled together… The movement, the aesthetics of the bodies, the bond and affection that is built around the hug stand out. They are the works of the sculptor Gustav Vigeland (1869 Mandal- 1943 Oslo), who was commissioned for this daunting task. In the center of the park stands the monolith, his most celebrated work: a powerful block of granite 17 meters high sculpted with 121 intertwined human figures, who love, suffer, celebrate and agonize. Life itself.
Back in the center we cannot avoid a visit to the National Museum of Oslo, recently inaugurated in June 2022. This monumental building offers a total area of ​​54,600 square meters, being the largest in all of Scandinavia. It is located in the old shipyards, its black slate skin surprises, like that of a hibernating dragon. Its interior is just as amazing, housing more than 6,500 works of art dating from antiquity to contemporary times. In this pharaonic container of art there are medieval works, Norwegian art, of course an important collection of works by Munch -including The Scream-, landscape painting, ceramics and the largest art library in the world.
When the good weather arrives, Norwegians love to go to the terraces and have a social life. You cannot miss the Lektern, (Stranden 3, Aker Brygge), a very fashionable place to go after the workday. They offer salads, fish and chips and a famous fish soup, a perfect space to have a beer and toast the miles traveled.
If there is a building that sets a chair, it is the Oslo Public Library (Deichman Bibliotek), a few meters from the Opera. Beyond the fact that it has won numerous awards -such as the one for the best or the most beautiful library in the world- its concept at the service of citizens, its offer and design are truly fascinating. Upon entering, the feeling is that of being in a museum full of books.
The floors are open, there are art objects hanging from the ceiling, you can see from the third floor what happens on the second through some interior balconies that connect the building. Everything is clear, open and accessible. In fact, there is a book self-lending service, without having to go through any human filter. The cafeteria is beautiful, on the ground floor, with a daily menu and coffee at a very good price. What is most surprising is the enormous amount of free activities for citizens.
Do you like music? They have a drum set to play -of course it’s electric and you wear headphones, you don’t have to be too modern-, guitar, bass and even a grand piano. In fact, you can record the music you produce and then take it with you. Moviegoers can watch auteur films in small theaters, there are plenty of games, you can also print 3D objects. If you like to design clothes there are sewing machines and even a studio to record podcasts. And of course, right in front of the exit, a bicycle station.
