The Kolomboi Museum is a unique place in the world. Created in 1998 by the explorer and adventurer Aris Evangelinos, there is no other dedicated to this historic Greek icon that is already part of the collective imagination of the entire country. It is located in Nafplion, a city in the eastern Peloponnese that stands out for its colorful streets and crystal clear waters.
For those who enter for the first time, the sensation of going to a place that mixes travel, history and even magic in just 70 square meters. “Every person in the world should choose their own komboloi. No two are the same, and the decision to opt for one or the other must be made by listening carefully to what our hearts dictate”, says Eleni Evangelinou, daughter of Aris, owner and current owner.
The komboloi is a unique and personal complement, almost legendary, that emerged more than 200 years ago during the Ottoman occupation of Greece. What one day appeared to pacify the spirits of the Greek citizens, who rose up against the Ottoman Empire in 1821 and did not win the war until February 3, 1830, today is an element that cannot be missing in any Greek home. In fact, its creation – of which neither the year nor the specific author is known until now – continues to be a mystery, but everything indicates that it was inspired by the Muslim rosary. “It was a kind of rebellion against the invaders. We transform a religious object into a symbol of freedom.”
Contrary to what many tourists think when they first see it, komboloi has nothing to do with religion. One of the most important differences with respect to rosaries is the sound. “We gave the balls space from each other so that they could move without problems. It was probably our particular way of expressing a desire for freedom”, Evangelinou tells the Magazine. A desire that has endured to this day.
On the streets, it is not difficult to see a man or woman spinning this atheist rosary while talking, conversing or even working behind a counter. One of the most substantial changes in recent years has been the demand for its use by women. “It has almost always been associated with men. But there is a big change. Every time we have more women who come to buy it, and on the street it is more common to see someone showing the komboloi in public”.
The museum has, on the ground floor, a shop specialized in all the kombolois that one can imagine. The most typical are those of amber, although they are also the most expensive. In fact, there are many stores that sell them throughout the country, but recently an official seal was created to certify those whose amber is authentic. “Amber is easy to imitate, so you always have to make sure that the object meets the official requirements imposed by the government,” Eleni explains.
Prices range from 20 to 6,000 euros. In fact, there are some created with amber alloys and other materials to reduce their price. In addition, you can also see others made with seeds of exotic trees, precious stones and even ivory. “This one here -he says while pointing to one that is 50 cm in size and has pearls the size of golf balls- costs 5,700 euros. It is one of the most expensive we have, but its value is truly incalculable”.
Those with the highest prices are those of “ambar-faturan”. It is a mixture between amber and bakelite -the first fully synthetic plastic substance- created for the first time in 1907. In fact, the few that still remain cannot even be appraised, since their value is difficult to attribute. The formula for making them disappeared in 1940, and since then no new units have been created, to our knowledge.
Eleni talks about the kombolois as if they had souls. She refers to them in such a personal way that at times it seems that, during the interview – which takes place in the museum’s office – there are several dozen people in the room. The display cases, which shine so much that they seem to sparkle, house Buddhist rosaries from the early 16th century, passing through Hindus, Muslims, Catholics and Orthodox. In the last room, how could it be otherwise, a dozen kombolois are exhibited that the founder of the museum and Eleni’s father, Aris Evangelinos, chose from among all those that he found throughout his life.
Some are even made with materials that stand out especially for their smell. “They can keep it for many, many years, even forever,” Eleni points out. To know how to use them, you have to be patient and fairly skilled with your hands. Of course, once you learn it, they can become an object that you will hardly put aside throughout the day.
