A painting by the symbolist painter Julio Romero de Torres, ‘The Spring’, inspires the collection that the Spanish designer Juana Martín presented this Monday on the Paris Haute Couture catwalk.
This work by his countryman from Cordoba (1874-1930), which has been almost a century since its creation, is one of the sources of this collection of 26 outfits, something that can be seen in the style of the garments, but also in hairstyles. or makeup.
It is the fourth consecutive time that Martín participates, as a guest house, in this prestigious week, within the official calendar of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion. She and she did it right in the center, in the shopping gallery of the Louvre Museum, next to the inverted pyramid.
An admirer of the work of Romero de Torres, Martín once again offers a spring-summer 2024 collection linked to her Andalusian roots, with dew as one of its protagonists.
“La Rosée” (The Dew) is how he has named his collection; that morning dew that gives a water shine effect, which the designer has managed to recreate in some of her proposals.
Furthermore, there is no shortage of flowers, made in silver by Logana’s workshops, and which come “to life”, being voluminous shapes that rise in more than one case from the garments themselves.
Among all the materials, we must highlight the presence in her parade of the vegetal grid characteristic of the chairs of Malaga, the city where Juana Martín spent her childhood.
Using this material, he has imagined everything from short jackets to dresses of various shapes and volumes, even combining it with others, such as metal and transparent fabric. A grid that she has even impregnated with layers of silver, thanks to a process used in the furniture universe.
A very Andalusian accessory has also been made with silver, the Cordoban hat, which has been paraded crowning one of the outfits, and capturing more than one flash.
“My collection is an ode to that season in which the sun begins to warm and everything blooms after winter,” the designer explained to EFE. Faithful to her DNA, in the field of color black and white once again reign supreme.
“It is a collection, like the previous ones, made in its Córdoba workshops, where some of its artisans have been working with Juana for more than twenty years,” explains Blanca Zurita, its press officer, behind the scenes.
In addition to the work of Romero de Torres, the designer from Córdoba admires the work of Cristóbal de Balenciaga. And she did not forget him in this parade, coinciding with the premiere of the television series about the architect of fashion. She has also taken the opportunity to give a nod to the country that welcomes and applauds her collections, with the use of precious Chantilly lace in two models.
As is traditional in Juana Martín, there was a prominent presence of head decorations, such as caps with floral motifs that sometimes covered all or half of the face.
The last set was dominated by a headdress that recalled an ancient baseball catcher’s helmet, crowned by a plume similar to that of the soldiers of classical Greece or Rome, but stretched at the back until it resembled the mane or tail of a horse.
A collection, ‘La Rosée’, applauded by the public, and that continues to set the bar high for the brand, making it the only Spanish one present on the official calendar this week, along with big French, Italian and Lebanese names, among others.
