Milan celebrates the trade of crafts. Well-made, leisurely fashion made with the best materials is experiencing an optimistic moment of unexpected growth despite the energy crisis, the increase in the cost of raw materials, inflation and the economic devastation caused by wars such as the one in Ukraine. The most international and important catwalk in Italy today closes an edition that shows that despite the pessimistic socioeconomic context, luxury persists.
With more than fifty fashion shows spread across different parts of the city of Milan, the most famous firms in the Italian industry impose relaxed and functional fashion for next winter, in front of the colorful London catwalk that took place last week and which defends the instant luxury aimed at generation Z.
In Milan, trends stand out such as the obsession with the classic tailored suit, which is modernized and is considered the uniform stripped of gender labels for 2023. He also maintains that quality basics will be intermingled with more formal pieces in response to the need for the consumer for wearing comfortable luxury for all occasions, and that a strong sensual accent will permeate Modern Bed Designss for next winter through very feminine silhouettes, which seek to mark the waist and give volume to the hips and shoulders. But despite the common points presented by the proposals that have paraded these days in Milan, each firm –especially the big names in the industry– has defended its own way of seeing fashion and, above all, its particular craft heritage.
The sessions started last Monday with names like Fendi and Max Mara. The first, directed by the charismatic Kim Jones, based his entire proposal on two colors: brown and blue, inspired by the style of Delfina Delettrez, creator of the brand’s high jewelry. Presenting at Milan’s Children’s Museum (Muba) on Wednesday, Max Mara focused on updating his classics: camel wool and cashmere coats, monochrome knitwear and casual tailoring for the modern woman. All of them wrapped in a halo of sophistication and with a punk point through corseted belts and leather gloves.
Prada’s turn came that same day at his own Foundation dedicated to modernist art. The long-awaited collection of the creative duo formed by Miucca Prada and Raf Simon captured the interest of the press, not only because of their idea of ??taking luxury off its pedestal and taking it to the street, with mixtures of formal pieces and more basic garments or an innovative wedding dress that seeks to move away from the more materialistic concept of beauty to focus on more substantial acts, such as the clothing trade. Also due to the presence of stellar models on its catwalk, such as Gigi Hadid and Kendal Jenner.
The famous have shone in this fashion week both on the catwalk and off it, in the front row or in the private parties of the most important brands of this Fashion Week. The predilection of the luxury industry for the big K-pop stars, who have managed to gather large crowds of fans in front of the gates of fashion shows such as Prada or Gucci in this edition, has coexisted with the strong pull of regular celebrities at this fashion circuit. Kim Kardashian, for example, became the muse and great protagonist of the Dolce parade
After the romanticism of Prada, it was time for the most festive luxury of Emporio Armani, which fearlessly mixes full-color velvets with fabrics as vaporous and delicate as tulle or silk. Jeremy Scott’s eccentric Moschino returns to the eighties with dresses and two-piece suits in tweed and Dolce
With the closure of the Italian catwalk, fashion travels to Paris on Monday. There, the IFM Master of Arts will kick off with an inaugural fashion show that will be followed by Christian Dior, Saint Laurent, Schiaparelli, Loewe and Chanel, among many other renowned names in French industry.