At the beginning of the year, a restaurant in Segovia made headlines for indicating in its menu that tap water was free, but that 4.5 euros were charged per service. Although after the controversy and complaints he later clarified that it was just a way to discourage customers from ordering tap water, this surreal case illustrates quite well how water has become a sensitive topic in restaurants. In fact, many customers look askance at those bottles of filtered water that arrive at the table and then at the receipt: are they charging us for tap water?
Treated water, filtered water, household water, kilometer zero water… It is true that the variety of names by which this water is called, which, after being passed through a filter, arrives at the table in glass bottles does not help much. In most cases there is a charge for this, unlike what happens with tap water which, according to the law, has to be served free and unlimited to the customer during the meal.
A rule that at the time made us imagine that the tradition from so many other countries of putting a jug of water on the table as part of welcoming the diner would reach Spain. From there, the drinks menu includes mineral water options that, logically, do have to be paid for. This has not been the case and, in fact, treated water that is paid for is now the norm.
Is it legal? “It is difficult to propose that it is illegal. It is true that it is mandatory to serve free tap water, but in this case they have undergone treatment,” says Rubén Sánchez, general secretary of Facua, the consumer association that, by the way, denounced that bar in Segovia that went too far. ready with tap water.
“The point is that they are transparent in what they are serving and that the menu specifies whether it is mineral or filtered water. If it only includes water, it is an incorrect letter because it does not give enough information to the consumer,” adds Sánchez, who also points out the great profitability that these water treatment systems represent for the hospitality industry, which, in a way, allow them to charge for tap water. with a relatively small investment.
For those who want a clue about the figures, Ander Ausin gives us it, who is launching a restaurant in the Guipuzcoan town of Deba. Labar will open in November, but they have already decided on the water filtration system. The price varies depending on the number of water dispensers, whether you also want the sparkling water option and how many personalized bottles you order.
But, as a reference, in this place you will pay about 140 euros per month to be able to have cold, seasonal water, and 84 beautiful glass bottles. How much will they sell it for? In your case, there will be no payment. “You should not charge for each bottle you serve to the customer because it is like offering a jug or glass of water,” defends Ausin.
They have chosen to integrate the cost into the cutlery and bread service. A more elegant formula and, without a doubt, less conflictive than including this water as another option on the menu or, as happens in many places, offering it as soon as you sit down without clarifying the type of water and its price.
Marc Martínez, owner of Rooster, knows well that it is a delicate matter.
Sustainability is one of the great arguments of these systems. Not only by avoiding plastic bottles, but also by transportation and the subsequent carbon footprint they cause. In addition, storage and logistics is another key point for many restaurants. And the costs, of course, are reduced by up to a third, according to what we read in the testimonials of users of Brita professional systems.
The brand – possibly the most popular when it comes to filtered water at home – also has professional proposals for restaurants and hotels. “Sustainable water dispensers,” they call them on their official website. The economic and ecological aspects are the two pillars in the arguments of the majority of companies in this sector.
“This system can be purchased or rented, and is a fixed cost, regardless of the liters used, since they are unlimited. One of the great advantages is knowing the cost of water for the entire year, since it is fixed,” the company explains to us.
Regarding the controversy surrounding whether or not restaurants should charge, there is no doubt here. “The filtration equipment consists of technology and benefits for the end customer that improve tap water, therefore, it is a service and has a cost for the restaurant. It is a mistake to think that an establishment or business should serve filtered water for free,” they defend.
But what’s the problem with tap water? Technically none. “In Spain, close to 100% of tap water is drinkable. Another thing is that the flavor is desirable,” points out Eloy García Calvo, Doctor in Industrial Chemistry, Professor of Chemical Engineering and director of the IMDEA Water Institute until 2022.
“The filtering operation is exclusively the physical removal of suspended solids, although sometimes they also call filtering an adsorption operation of substances dissolved in water, for example, in activated carbon. If a deeper treatment is needed, perhaps reverse osmosis would have to be achieved,” he explains.
But is this process necessary? “If the tap water is drinkable and organoleptically appropriate, it is neither necessary nor noticeable,” he says. In other words, in places like Barcelona these processes help eliminate the unpleasant taste of the water as it comes out of the tap, but in cities like Madrid – whose tap water is often boasted of – it would not be necessary at all.
The reasons why restaurants do not simply offer tap water seem clear. But why don’t customers ask for it? Although it seems to remain a kind of taboo, something is slowly changing.
“In bars and restaurants where I have worked – says Ander Ausin – I have seen that more and more is ordered, especially in more informal establishments. But with a ticket above 40 or 50 euros, the customer is willing to pay whatever is asked for a bottle of water.”
