For a long time, watchmakers have maintained and improved their love story with that pink tone that turns to orange or ochraceous gold. That bubbly color that we commonly know as salmon has historical significance (it has always been a great attraction for collectors), but also recent. Because it’s pure trend. Probably the most pronounced of the upcoming season.

History says that this tone first attracted attention during the Roman Empire, when it was discovered that the impurities in gold coins turned towards a copper tint. It would later become a jewelry fashion option and a surprising hallmark first of Fabergé (and its precious eggs) and, later, of the Maison Cartier of the 1920s, which dared to link the three declensions of the ring in its Trinity Ring. gold: white, yellow and pink.

But in fine watchmaking this salmon that everyone now declines did not come onto the scene until the 1930s and 1940s, with Patek Philippe and Rolex as pioneers. The spheres of that hue, usually made of bare metal taking advantage of the beauty of fresh copper (although they can also be made with lacquer, electroplating, or rose gold), emerged as an example that burgeoning industrialization could be harnessed to achieve such new beauty. as unique. Salmon began to shine as the tone most capable of celebrating the link between industry and art and conveying one of the most subtle forms of expression of art deco, with its intricate geometries and liberal use of metal work.

Due to the strength of that striking but not excessive color, which sometimes approaches copper and pink, other times it stagnates in the flashes of the most radiant beige and, on occasions, advances to the most intense brown, this season they have added almost all the great manufactures. They celebrate with this timeless color that is back in fashion that there are more options, in addition to the standard black, blue and white that we usually choose. Or that green that also lights up the most daring dials in recent years.

From the most recent proposals by Laurent Perrier (his award-winning Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit is pure salmon), to Lange