“A perfume is excellent if it has a recognizable and memorable signature and provides pleasure above all else,” says Fanny Bal, nose of The Omniscient Mr Thompson, the butler who joins Portraits, the British aristocracy family imagined with humor by Penhaligon’s. From his mentor, the great Dominique Ropion, he learned the importance of patience, perseverance and a sense of rigor in creating fragrances and the meticulous precision of perfumery. In his new proposal he has given priority to the sublimation of some ingredients such as lily, rich and elegant, to translate the refinement and tradition that characterizes the brand. Combined with a sesame milk accord it gains modernity and boldness.
Describe Penhaligons in a few words.
An inspiring brand that transports us to its British universe from the first moment. It is a great reference on how to work in perfumery, mixing a timeless and contemporary approach with quality, luxury and heritage.
What would you say distinguishes your work as a perfumer?
Without a doubt, the readability. I like to create clear signatures that enhance the beauty of a strong olfactory idea.
Where do you start to achieve those results?
Due to a significant duality of ingredients. I like to explore the facets of contrasts and then round out the note.
How did you imagine the butler to portray him olfactory?
For me he is someone whose presence we feel even when he is not there. One of the characters that inspired me was 007, because he has a mysterious aura very similar to Mr Thompson in my imagination, who is always on a mission, trying to discover or uncover something. The entire context and history of the character transports me directly to the traditional British tea rooms, which combine class, the art of serving and the world of baking. Elements that speak to me.
I think you are an excellent baker. Do you also like gourmand fragrances?
Completely! My love for pastries goes beyond admiration; It is a passion that significantly influences my approach to perfumery. The precision and creativity that baking requires resonates with the art of creating fragrances. I like gourmand fragrances, but I have a special obsession with musks and the texture that I can provide by being inspired by the world of pastry. I also draw parallels with the sweet side of musks.
What attracts you to a fragrance?
For me the appeal of a fragrance lies in the tension and contrast between the artistic and rigorous side of perfumery. It is a poetic expression in which we can recognize ourselves and express ourselves through a memorable olfactory signature.
What is the latest thing that has surprised you in perfumery? An ingredient suggested by the AI?
Artificial intelligence is an incredible tool, but what fascinates me even more is the constant search for new and innovative ingredients. Captive molecules or natural raw materials that can take years to develop. A good example is the turmeric leaf that I used in the creation of Mr Thompson, a novelty resulting from upcycling that has fascinating spicy and aromatic nuances.
He has defined his work as “a school of modesty.” Isn’t there much ego among perfumers?
It is a school of modesty with respect to ourselves. Perfumery is an eternal learning. I would say that it is much more about the pride we feel in our creations than it is about the ego itself.
