Although Bilbao does not have a beach, it is already known that the confines of this city are so wide that almost everything can be considered its outskirts. But beyond the joke, Getxo marks from the right bank the arrival of the Nervión estuary to the sea, and for many Bilbao residents Neguri is their first beach. Right there, since 1912, the imposing Arriluce Palace has been part of the landscape of this place, a traditional residential area of ??the upper classes. Converted a few months ago into a luxury hotel, the Delaunay restaurant with Beñat Ormaetxea at the helm seeks to become another reference place for Biscayan cuisine, in its most refined aspect.
It has always been said that San Sebastián is more French-like and that Bilbao looks towards England. In the new Palacio Arriluce hotel, both influences seem to come together. A croquet field—yes, that sport invented in France and popularized by the English—welcomes and surprises the visitor in this mansion ordered to be built at the beginning of the 20th century by the Ybarra family, one of the most powerful families of the Basque industrial bourgeoisie.
After a long renovation, the mansion that overlooks the Cantabrian Sea and the Arriluce lighthouse above the galleries of Punta Begoña has become one of the most luxurious and exclusive hotels in the Basque Country. A historic space with British airs and French references. Starting with the name of the gastronomic restaurant, which borrows another well-known surname: Delaunay.
It is a tribute to Sonia Delaunay, the painter and artist who was a friend of the first Marquise of Arriluce, tells us Toni Solivellas, director of the hotel. A veteran of international luxury chains, his involvement in the project from the first moment is evident in his enthusiasm and knowledge of every detail of the place. The cellar hidden behind the library door, the chapel converted into an altar dedicated to champagne, or the family stories are part of the charm of this business with less than 50 rooms that champions “serene luxury” and includes the “Getxo-Bilbao” location ” in its description.
Why not Neguri? The name of this neighborhood, a historical symbol of luxury in the area, seems to have more force. At least for the locals, of course. Faced with this, Solivellas defends claiming Getxo, the municipality that makes up Neguri along with other towns in the area (Las Arenas, Algorta…) to turn it into a pole of attraction with its own name for those who visit Bilbao.
And for that you not only need a great hotel, but also a great restaurant. And that is where Beñat Ormaetxea comes in, one of the leaders of Biscayan cuisine from his restaurant Jauregibarria Jatetxea, a beautiful hamlet with the name of a palace (Jauregibarria, new palace in Basque) and which has been in charge of giving shape to Delaunay’s proposal. .
Chosen in 2001 as the best young chef in the country and after passing through houses like that of Martin Berasategui, the cuisine rooted in the territory and based on traditional recipes are key in the career of this chef based in Amorebieta.
In 2021 and together with Sergio Ortiz de Zárate, he also tried his luck in Madrid with Elkar, the highest restaurant in the country in one of the Castellana towers in the capital. That kind of four-handed consultancy lasted a few years, but this new adventure is much closer.
In kilometers and also in concept, although in the face of the restaurant’s proposal here it is necessary to adapt to the refined place, the clientele and also the price. Along with a not very extensive menu, a single tasting menu is offered – there were three, but the choice was made to simplify the offer – which consists of eight courses and two desserts and costs 121 euros.
Ormaetxea is not in the day-to-day running of the restaurant, but another well-known name is in charge of the kitchen and the entire gastronomic offer of the hotel. Including, by the way, some Basque-Mex eggs for breakfast based on talo (toasted corn cakes), Gernika beans, jalapeños and torrezno that won us over first thing in the morning. The person in charge is Ekaitz Apraitz, for years in charge of Tunateca Balfegó and other products of this company and who has now returned home.
Elegant, with magnificent natural light and walls painted Bilbao blue, the beautiful room is in charge of Jon Nafarrate, who handles with good hand the visitors who have already located the new hotel. And also to residents of the area who want to see inside that palace that they have seen for so many years on the other side and extend the aperitif on the terrace, with views of El Abra.
The menu baptized “Tradition and innovation” already makes its intentions clear in the title. Not very long but generous in portions, this concept of revisiting products and recipes with a modern touch shines in dishes such as sliced ??cod with brandade foam, anchovy and plankton tapenade, royal mullet with fennel and lime, or hake cocochas on roasted peppers.
Game (deer, roe deer…), which has great prominence on the menu and in the cuisine of Ormaetxea, also sneaks into the menu with a very well-resolved pigeon that looks for a false wheat risotto and the sweetness of beet a sweet spot that I didn’t need either. Something that is clearer in some pig’s trotters that, with this location and views, we would love to see with a perfect Biscayan sauce, more than with the sweet potato and passion fruit with which they arrive.
In addition to Delaunay, the hotel has the Kupka cocktail bar. Beyond having a drink (the Kupka Signature is interesting, a version of the classic vermouth prepared in the area, but with whiskey) they also serve more casual dishes, from hotel classics (club sandwich, hamburger…) to a tasty fish soup or cod. with mushrooms and miso.
