“Are you eager, hungry or hungry?” the host asks the diners, once they are seated at the table. As if a change of ownership, name and concept had not recently occurred in this iconic establishment on 32 Augusto Figueroa Street, Andrés Madrigal receives with the same chant that his predecessor Iñaki Camba made famous for several decades. A loving nod to the history of this space and its previous owners, which the parishioners welcome with a smile. Good for Andrés!
Arce was a legendary eatery in the Madrid neighborhood of Chueca, with its seasonal cuisine and its passion for smoked foods, stews, mushrooms, game… After its closure last spring, given its privileged location, anyone would have guessed the arrival from one of those chain establishments with colorful decoration and mimetic menu. But, instead, the continuity of good dining here was assured with Madrigal’s return to the capital.
Per Sé is a Latin phrase that means “for oneself” and perfectly defines the vital and professional moment of the Madrid chef, after ten years of voluntary exile in Panama and his entire career working for others. Finally, at 57 years old, he is his own boss. Hence the name chosen, which will remind some traveled gourmet of Thomas Keller’s famous three stars in New York.
To situate ourselves, it is worth remembering that our protagonist was one of the most interesting chefs in Madrid during the turn of the century, serving at El Olivo, Alborada, Balzac – where he shone at the highest level – and Alboroque, where he received an ephemeral Michelin rose in 2009. Then, he went to the Americas.
“The definitive return of the prodigal son, a chef of finesse and inventiveness,” as master Fernando Point has defined it, brings with it a comprehensive renovation of the facilities, with a sober decoration, in brown and beige tones, where the noble woods stand out. and the handmade ceramics made by the chef’s wife. Although Per Sé has the adjective Bistro added to its name, don’t imagine at all crowded tables without tablecloths and contained bills. Here the linen tablecloth is as essential as the concept of a signature gastronomic restaurant, attached to the market and with a clear traveling vocation that is fundamentally inspired by the chef’s experiences overseas.
The neophyte customer can order à la carte, but it is best to choose one of the two tasting menus (€80 and €110) to get a clear idea of ??the house’s style. In our case, we really enjoyed the daring combinations of flavors here and there that demonstrate the excellent form of this professional.
Succulent sea and mountain gyozas with lemon gras with suquet. Cheerful blue corn toast with red tuna, citrus caviar, ponzu, pasilla chili and avocado emulsion. Cheeky grilled boneless free-range chicken wings with red curry and mustard leaf. Refreshing estuary sea bass ceviche, corn, tree tomato, passion fruit and chili pepper. Comforting artichoke, black pata lardo and Melanosporum black truffle. Curious turbot with chives, papapomodoro and basil chlorophyll. Hearty Angus beef rib, celeriac puree, mushrooms and Hoisin sauce. And, for dessert, chocolate with chestnut, bread and extra virgin olive oil, which is a classic from Andrés’ old days.
For the next visit, we leave the pigeon with mole poblano, yogurt, cardamom and sweet potato, which has already become a favorite in the house. Short wine list, but not without interesting bottles from small producers. Efficient and friendly service. Prices in line with the ambition of the premises. A return in style.