Jamie Dornan, Andrew Garfield, Taylor Russell, Joe Alwyn, Manu Ríos, C. Tangana, Jaime de Marichalar. Everyone was in the same place at the same time to see the new Loewe collection, signed by its creative director, Jonathan Anderson.
Loewe is not Dior nor is it Louis Vuitton, although like them it belongs to the LVMH group and, despite the fact that thanks to Anderson’s work it has become one of the most popular brands in the industry, Loewe is not like any other fashion house. fashion, because their collections always start from an idea. On this occasion, Anderson gathered his followers to make them reflect on the moment in which we live: “Now that the media has become 360, what does it mean for the future of fashion?” he commented after the show.
To put his point of view on the catwalk, he used the perspective of artist Richard Hawkins, famous for his collage-style works that comment on popular culture themes. On screens in the shape of the windows of the Loewe store in Gran Vía projected on the walls of the show space, audiovisual collages were played in a loop for which Anderson asked his ambassadors, from Jamie Dornan to Manu Ríos, to record themselves. “just as they would like to perceive themselves in front of a phone.”
Men’s collections tend to be secondary for brands because they do worse numbers than women’s collections, but that common denominator cannot be applied to Loewe or its creative director either, who use men to introduce new things. What’s new, then, for next winter? In the designer’s words: “The shoe is attached to the sock, the sock is attached to the pants, the jacket… So it becomes a one-piece look.” And thus the act of dressing also becomes a collage that destroys the context of each of the parts that form it to create a new one.
The silhouettes appeared distorted: the bottom parts were tremendously oversized or so tiny that they did not exist; The tops were conspicuous by their absence or extended into skirts. From the garments, colors and materials –among which nappa and leather stand out– and the balance between them, the same type of tension that is established between the user oversaturated with impacts and his mobile phone emerged.
Hawkins’ work was present literally in knitwear and beading and in an oversized version of the Squeeze bag that also appeared in denim. A lot of information, but good information.
