Little did the machinists who were in charge of the La Torica locomotive until 1973 imagine that years later that train track would be conquered by bicycles. And the Vía Verde del Zafán is currently one of the most famous cycle routes in Spain. The reason for its success is the nearly 130 kilometers between La Puebla de Híjar and Tortosa and, above all, the spectacular landscapes of Matarraña, Terra Alta and Baix Ebre.
We have to go back to 1882 to find the origin of this route, the year in which the General Society of Public Works received the concession of the line and transferred it to the Val de Zafán Railway Company. Although it was not until 1891 when the works began. The first section built was between La Puebla de Híjar and Alcañiz (Aragón), and after a break that lasted years, they were restarted during the dictatorship of Primo de Rivera. Construction was accelerated between Alcañiz and Bot for the Battle of the Ebro, since it was very useful for Franco’s troops to transport war material and troops. Finally, the tracks reached Tortosa in 1942.
Although it experienced peak times, such as during the Civil War, the Torica, the Tortosino or the Sarmentero, nicknames that this route received, it was never very profitable. So, taking advantage of the collapse of a tunnel in Bot, the State decided to close it in 1973.
Fortunately, the human effort made to cross mountains and valleys was not in vain, since today it is a beautiful path that allows you to cycle from the south of Aragon to the Ebro delta. The route of the road Its passage through the Terra Alta region, between Arnes and Pinell de Brai, is barely 27 kilometers, but it is full of interesting places that are worth visiting.
One of the first stops on the Terra Alta Greenway, if we choose to cycle towards Tortosa, is Horta de Sant Joan. This beautiful medieval town is full of cobbled streets and is an ideal place to get lost while wandering aimlessly. The church square or the Sant Salvador square, for example, are two places where time seems to have stopped. It is not surprising that Picasso himself found refuge here on two separate occasions. As a result of his stays, he painted different paintings, and two hundred of his works can be seen today in the Picasso Center.
We get back on the bike and continue towards the sea. We pass through spectacular viaducts, such as the one that crosses the Censal ravine, and we go through numerous tunnels, in which, by the way, it is advisable to bring a good light. A few kilometers further on we find Bot, at whose station there is an old carriage that serves as a cafeteria. There are tables and chairs around it, which makes it an ideal place to rest and have a snack.
Following the route, which is almost always flat, we soon come across one of the most striking natural attractions on the route and an essential stop in the summer months: the Fontcalda spa. The Canaletes River narrows as it passes through the Fontcalda Sanctuary and offers spectacular river pools of an intense green color. At this point water with chloride and calcium carbonate gushes out at more than 25 degrees, which is why a spa was built where people came in search of cures and therapeutic treatments.
Neither Gandesa nor Pinell de Brai are close to the greenway, but they are well worth a detour from the route (preferably by car) for the following reasons.
In Gandesa there is one of the most spectacular wine cathedrals that remain. Designed in 1920 by César Martinell, who was a disciple of Gaudí and Puig i Cadafalch, this majestic building houses the Gandesa Cooperative. It was here that Martinell innovated with the structure of the naves, based on parabolic brick arches, with underground tanks, or in the design of windows for interior ventilation. Currently, the building can be visited with an audio guide (includes wine tasting in the Cooperative store) or by arranging a private guide. If we choose this second option, we will be able to taste more wines from the cooperative and delve deeper into the wine history of the area, which is very interesting.
Ten kilometers from Gandesa we find another wine cathedral worth a stop: Pinell de Brai. This modernist building also designed by César Martinell at the beginning of the 1920s is very similar to the one in Gandesa. In this winery with more than 100 years of history you can also take audio-guided tours or arrange private guided tours. A very good option is to eat at the celler restaurant, located in one of the naves of the cathedral. And to wash down the food and wine, there is nothing better than walking the steep slopes of this picturesque town.
Terra Alta was the main scene during the Spanish Civil War. Much of the fighting in the Battle of the Ebro, one of the longest and bloodiest of the entire war, took place here. As a result of the bombings, the town of Corbera d’Ebre was completely destroyed, forcing the survivors to build a new one next door. Today you can visit Poble Vell, whose degree of destruction is reminiscent of that of Belchite.
Anyone who wants to learn more about how those dark years were lived in the area can visit two very complete interpretation centers in the same town: the 115 dies and the more modest La Trinxera Civil War Exhibition. Oh, and on the outskirts of Corbera is Cota 402, where trenches still remain that contrast with the beautiful views of the region.
If we return to the greenway and continue pedaling towards Tortosa, we will leave Terra Alta behind, but we will enter another beautiful region: Baix Ebre, where 22 kilometers of adventure await us (with sections next to an already imposing Ebro river) and even a old station, Benifallet, converted into accommodation and restaurant.
