Framed by the San Antonio and Nao capes, and protected behind by the Montgó wall, Xàbia appears in the landscape as that “sublime and immense” town that the painter Joaquín Sorolla defined at the end of the last century. A city that overlooks the sea for 25 kilometers, on one of the most beautiful coastal stretches of the Peninsula.
It is because of its privileged position that for many it is the pearl of the Costa Blanca. A coastline marked by extensive beaches and hidden coves, mysterious caves and lost islets, imposing cliffs and rock outcroppings that serve as viewpoints of the eternal Mediterranean. Especially in spring, when these places look calm and lonely, Xàbia is the ideal destination for a hedonistic getaway.
Because it is not only the rugged nature that draws its beauty. This town also has a colorful historic center that preserves its medieval atmosphere. A network of charming alleys, in which the facades alternate their pristine whiteness with the rough stone lines characteristic of the place.
Dominating the complex is the church of Sant Bertomeu, which in turn served as a fortress against pirate attacks, and in which everything, even the altar itself, is made with this material. Next to it, the picturesque market, built on what was an Augustinian convent destroyed in the Civil War, proudly displays its Gothic appearance, despite being a construction from 1946.
Walking through Xàbia is to discover elegant mansions that are a legacy of the splendor that the raisin trade brought with it, back in the 17th century, before these areas were a land of oranges and lemons. One of them today houses the Archaeological and Ethnographic Museum, where the history of the municipality is recounted.
Of course, there is also the fishing district, where in addition to a promenade that has adopted the name of Sorolla (there is even a sculpture that pays tribute to him), the groundbreaking Loreto church stands out, a unique example of brutalism in religious architecture. Designed as a concrete oval (referring more to a football stadium) this peculiar temple surprises with its interior in the shape of a boat keel.
It is in this corner of the city where you can breathe in the seafaring essence, especially in the evening, when the boats return from fishing and the fish auction takes place. An opportunity to purchase, very fresh, the delicious products of this Mediterranean strip. Anchovy, sardine, mackerel horse mackerel, capellan… and, of course, the coveted red shrimp, of which there are up to five categories. For the first, the largest, you can pay up to 200 euros per kilo.
And if there is one thing that makes a spring trip to Xàbia even more appealing, it is the fact that it is a gastronomic destination in itself. Here, where a rich culinary tradition brings products from the land and sea to the table, you have the absolute guarantee of making your palate happy.
Obvious proof of this is the Madre restaurant, directed by Nazario Cano. This renowned chef, who obtained a Michelin star with El Rodat (in this same space) and another with Odiseo, in Murcia, deploys his creative universe in an amazing and exquisite menu, with fresh seasonal produce and at an unbeatable price. .
From the vegetables, which are present in all the dishes, to the essential rice dishes (such as the sweet artichoke and squid or the scorpionfish or the tuna and shrimp), all their dishes boast root cuisine in the lightest and most healthy. Don’t miss the cuttlefish salad with peanuts and artichoke; the foie in salted sardine and parsnip jam or the Valencian tomato with cockles, capellans and fried broccoli. All this after discovering a delicacy as shocking as it is delicious: the sea mosquito, a kind of mini lobster, fried in the Andalusian style, which is eaten whole and unpeeled (and is as addictive as the pipes).
Madre, which is the star of restoration in Xàbia, is located within a hotel that is the star of accommodation. We are talking about Ritual de Terra, an eco-luxury resort made up of independent suites, like whitewashed villas hidden among vegetation, in which the essence of the purest Mediterranean is reproduced. A place where, living up to its name, you can indulge in a wellness ritual in a wonderful spa with a holistic philosophy.
