Here vermouth is not popular at any time other than midday. It is in the central hours of the day, when the sun is high, that the terraces of Barcelona are packed with locals and tourists united by snacking and the brown liquor that gives its name to this gastronomic ritual. But at Benditto they are convinced that this tradition can also be practiced in the afternoon and even at night, something that is more common in other European countries such as Italy.
Caterina Mirenda, the owner of this Italian-Catalan vermouth shop on Bailén Street, is precisely from there, where they offer more than twenty types of vermouths originating from Italy, France or Catalonia. “Some stand out for her personality and others for her elegance. We try to make them not typical,” explains this Florentine with Sicilian roots.
His partner, chef Victor Ferrer (Betlem and Cafè del Centre), signs the gastronomic proposal, mostly composed of cold preparations. But don’t fear, just like in other Barcelona houses, the lack of a stove doesn’t make it any less interesting. The menu starts with a section featuring the “vermuteo” classics, where there is no shortage of gilda, marinated olives and quality preserves.
And what comes next? The rustic and hearty sausages made by Mirenda’s brother-in-law in Agliana, a town near Florence. Some examples are sbriciolone or capocollo, although you can also choose from local options such as Vic’s llonganissa from Casa Oms and matured sobrasada from Xesc Reina.
And we come to the dishes, perfect for those who are not afraid to mess with vermouth. All of them are simple preparations where Italian and Catalan flavors come together, and whose purity we try to keep intact. Delicious “montadito” of pickled smoked mussels, fennel and celery, and a different way to devour this traditional preserve.
Another tasty bite is the roasted leek with smoked stracciatella and aromatic red pesto, where Catalonia and Italy understand each other perfectly. We continue with the egg stuffed with sea ox salad and basil mayonnaise. Tasty and slightly spicy, we would order it until we were sick, but we decided to try the steak tartare that they prepare in the Panzano style, with a very rich and fresh citrus touch.
Of the suggestions, which adapt to the season and change every two to three weeks, we chose the intensely flavored smoked tuna with caponata (another nod to Mirenda’s Sicilian origins). We accompany everything with a spongy focaccia from Pan a Mà boulangerie that leaves us no room for dessert. It doesn’t worry us, so we have an excuse to return.
Benditto is a personal project with which Mirenda and Ferrer seek to have fun making diners have a good time. The establishment, with its bright colors and vintage style, the friendliness of the staff and the simple and informal proposal, which chef Jazmín Fernández is in charge of on a day-to-day basis, row in that direction and succeed. Let’s say have a good time.
