Because of Russia’s invasion, Ukraine’s culture of making borsch, a hearty soup made with cabbage and beets, was added to UNESCO’s list of heritage traditions that “need urgent safeguarding”.
Borscht is often called that in English. It is a popular soup in Eastern Europe, and it is also very common in Russia. However, Ukraine considers it a national food or, as UNESCO puts it, “part of the fabric and culture of Ukrainian society, cultural heritage, identity, and tradition.”
“The victory in war for Borsch is ours!” Oleksandr Tkachenko, Ukraine’s Culture Minister posted via Telegram declaring that the soup was “officially” Ukrainian. “Remember, and be certain: We will win the war as we did for borsch.”
Recent years have seen the politicalization of the borsch heritage issue. Fighting has intensified in eastern Ukraine since 2014, which Russia recognised as independent before it invaded the country in February. Russia has always claimed borsch as part its food tradition. It is possible that the soup’s complicated origins can be traced back to ancient Kievan Rus which was summarily nationalized by the Soviet Union.
UNESCO was asked by Ukraine to consider borsch its “intangible culture heritage” before the conflict. Friday’s war brought about the United Nations culture agency to declare that it had inscribed for the first time a cultural heritage component for protecting “as an urgent matter.”
UNESCO stated that “armed conflict has threatened to endanger the viability” of the element. The element is at risk from the displacement of bearers and people, who are unable to not only cook and grow local vegetables for Borscht but also to get together to practice it.
UNESCO noted, however, that the inscription does not imply exclusive ownership or ownership of the heritage, but rather “recognizes and respects the cultural and social importance of Borscht cuisine amongst Ukrainians.” UNESCO has in the past attributed the same dishes to different cultural heritage countries, such as kimchi or couscous.
The agency noted that borscht can also be prepared with fish or mushrooms. However, it is most often made from beets, tomatoes, root vegetables and cabbage. It is usually served with bread, sour cream and dill.
UNESCO has previously added to the list of practices that “need urgent safeguarding”. These included Turkey’s whistled tongue, Botswana’s Seperu folkdance, and Mongolian calligraphy.
2016 saw Ukraine add another cultural practice to the UNESCO list: The Cossack songs from the Dnipropetrovsk south-central region. This song is endangered by the aging of its bearers.
