As the plane turns through a gap in the mountains, minutes before landing, a hidden valley stretches out below, framed by virgin forests and snow-capped peaks. In the heart of the Himalayas, Paro looks like a dream, a handful of traditional houses with beautifully carved eaves and frames decorated with paintings. Buddhist flags fly everywhere, incense wafts through the streets, and most wear the iconic national dress.
Tucked between India and Tibet, Bhutan is a traditional country but moving forward: new democracy, new technologies, free education and healthcare, economic growth, and an exponential increase in tourism. The modern world is welcome, as long as it does not harm the unique cultural traditions, which are the soul of the country.
Bhutanese men still walk the streets in their traditional costumes and knee-high argyle socks. The countryside is dotted with wooden houses and spectacular Buddhist monasteries, and the entire population participates in colorful festivals. Bhutan’s royal family and Buddhist teachers are extremely popular in the Himalayan mountain kingdom, where traditions and religion are highly valued.
Preserving Bhutan’s culture – religion, language, clothing and architecture – is one of the four pillars of the country’s famous Gross National Happiness (GNF) concept, which ranks happiness above GDP. Bhutan’s natural environment is equally prized: large swathes of the country are protected in national parks and plastic bags are banned. If Shangri-La exists today, Bhutan is the most likely candidate, although this comes at a price. To keep visitor numbers down, the Bhutanese government imposes a high daily tourist fee, which can be as high as €250 per person per night in high season.
Situated an hour away from the airport, but with enough space for luxury hotels, a golf course and a castle or dzong where in 2008 a new king was crowned amidst great festivities barely noticed by the outside world, the small capital, Thimphu has a wide variety of shops, including a National Crafts Emporium.
There you can buy the best kira – the wrap-around ‘dress’ worn by women – or a gho, a knee-length garment worn by men, in a superb range of silk and brocade fabrics. Most of the regions specialize in handicrafts based on their own raw material, wood, clay… and surplus items for local needs are sold in Thimphu.
From wooden bowls to bamboo items, from silver filigree to handmade paper, Buddhist paintings or fabulous fabrics. Quality is Assured: For Bhutanese, creating beautiful things is an act of worship, a thanksgiving for the gifts of the natural world.
Tashichhodzong is known as ‘the fortress of glorious religion’. It is the center of government and religion, the place of the throne of the monarch. It was built in 1641 and rebuilt in the 1960s in the traditional way, without nails or architectural plans.
Dechenphodrang Monastery, the House of High Joy, is located in the north of the Thimphu valley and includes a monastic school where half a thousand monks live. The National Memorial Chorten, a kind of stupa, was built in 1974 as a monument to the country’s third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, considered the father of modern Bhutan.
The spectacular route from Thimphu to Punakha runs through the famous Dochula Pass, which houses interesting monuments along its course and offers the opportunity to see the great Himalayas. The beautiful Punakha has been inextricably linked with momentous occasions in the country’s history. Two of the country’s rivers converge there. At its confluence is the Punakha Dzong, one of the most majestic structures in the country and the second oldest dzong, at nearly 400 years old. Its name means palace of great happiness.
Until the 1970s, the central region of Bhutan was only accessible on foot or on horseback. Times have changed with the improvement of the main highway from west to east of Bhutan, but still only travelers seeking an off the beaten path experience go there. The journey can be arduous, windy, and slow, but it’s worth it. There, the Bumthang district is the religious heart of the nation and home to some of the oldest temples and dzongs in the country, such as Jambay Lhakhang in Jakar, built in the 7th century.
After crossing the Trongsa district, of great political importance to Bhutanese leaders due to its privileged location, we arrive at the magnificent four valleys of Bumthang, a mysterious area that holds stories of treasure hunters and is architecturally rich, with fascinating monasteries and relics left by ancestral gurus. The best activity to get to know the region is hiking.
The Phobjikha Valley is an impressive sight where wide valleys are flanked by high mountains. It is a vast wetland that welcomes the annual winter migration of the rare and endangered black-necked crane, where hundreds flock from the Tibetan Plateau from late October to mid-February for their winter rest.
In this natural paradise, the Black-necked Crane Festival is held in November each year with dancing, folk songs and crane-themed theatrical performances at Gangtey Monastery. The former monastery sits on a spur overlooking the impressive valley and is home to a Buddhist school and prominent religious iconography. The cranes are said to circle three times on their flight over the monastery on each arrival before landing in the nearby wetland and do the same on their return flight as if to pay their respects to Gangtey Monastery.
The central region of Bhutan was largely inaccessible until the 1970s, unless you traveled on foot or on horseback. Times have changed with the improvement of the main highway from west to east of Bhutan. However, it is no longer as remote as it once was, still only accessed by travelers looking for a truly off the beaten path experience. The journey can be arduous, windy and slow in places, but it is well worth the effort.
The Bumthang district in central Bhutan is the religious heart of the nation and home to some of the oldest temples and dzongs in the country. Jakar, a small settlement spread out over a vast valley, is home to Jambay Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in the country built in the 7th century dedicated to Maitreya Buddha.
You will cross the Trongsa district, of great political importance to the Bhutanese leaders due to its privileged location. The road from Trongsa leads to the magnificent four valleys of Bumthang, a very mysterious area that offers stories of treasure hunters and is architecturally rich with fascinating monasteries and relics left behind by ancient gurus.
The best activity in the region is trekking, as the mountains offer brilliant trails that wind gracefully around the valleys showcasing what the region has to offer in all its glory. The landscape is separated by beautiful forest scenes, which are considered the cultural heart of this wonderful country and look like beautiful watercolors brought to life.
Ura, lies in the highest of the Bumthang valleys, at about 3,100 m. It has become a prosperous region since the construction of the main road to the east, the village has an almost medieval look, with a narrow stone path leading to the temple, and most of the houses have wooden shingles covering the ceiling.
Upon your return, it is convenient to visit Flaming Lake. Here, a wooden bridge festooned with prayer flags spans the Tang Chhu (river) where 16th-century religious leader Pema Lingpa discovered sacred artifacts hidden away by saintly Guru Rinpoche.
One of the most spectacular temples in Asia is Taktshang Palphug, also called the Tiger’s Nest. An architectural prodigy literally hanging from a cliff a thousand meters high in the Paro Valley, with incredible views of the surrounding mountains and only accessible by three tortuous paths. It was built in 1692, but in 1998 a fire almost destroyed it, so it was rehabilitated to reopen its doors in 2005.
Its different buildings are interconnected by stairs carved into the rock. Inside its luxuriously beautiful interior is the room of the Thousand Buddhas, also carved into the rock, with a large statue of a tiger: legend has it that the location of the monastery was chosen by a tigress who brought the guru on her back. who introduced Buddhism to Bhutan, Padmasmabhava.
