On the wall of Dr. Alicia Merino’s office at the Dermik dermatology clinic there is a huge poster with a very visible message: “Less is more.” It is aimed at teenagers, ages 15 and up, who may arrive with a toiletry bag full of makeup and anti-aging products that they do not need: “They use more creams than I do,” says the specialist.
Also in pediatric dermatology consultations, girls between 10 and 14 years old extract from their treasure boxes a cosmetic arsenal that could be the envy of many mothers. They confess that they can use around ten products a day to achieve that seemingly perfect skin that they see especially on TikTok, their main source of, often, (mis)information.
“They want to be like those references who sell them a false idea of ??perfection, copy an image that is often projected with a lot of filters and routines with paid collaborations,” says Dr. Merino. “In the end, everything translates into excessive spending on treatments that you don’t need and that can be harmful to your skin,” she summarizes. This exaggerated expense, which is often fueled by birthday gifts and salary savings, usually becomes a source of conflict and is one of the reasons for an early visit to the dermatologist who will have to deal with the “blind faith” that the youngest they have in their favorites on the networks.
The phenomenon is so widespread that it even has its own name: cosmeticorexia. “It is a trend that defines the obsession with cosmetics in girls and adolescents with compulsive and indiscriminate use of skincare products,” says Jerónimo Ors, pharmacist, specialist in skin health and beauty and director of the botanical cosmetics firm Paquita. Ors. “Each skin and circumstance has its treatment, but under the age of 18 it is rare for the skin to need continuous maintenance. The exceptions are acne-prone skin, which must be controlled as soon as possible, and atopic skin that, due to its extraordinary sensitivity, needs soothing products,” he says.
In the aisles of the large cosmetic displays in shopping centers and specialized stores, it is common to see groups of girls and teenagers trying out the latest makeup trends with very studied strokes. Designs with striking colors and an aesthetic that thinks about them attract them like honey.
In principle it is a harmless diversion, but taken to the extreme and without being clear about the properties of the ingredients of each product, it can worsen acne, the until now traditional gateway to cosmetic routines. “It mixes with excess sebum, it can clog pores and acne gets out of control,” warns Dr. Alicia Merino. When there is a pathology to be treated, some teenagers rebel against the procedure: “If I can’t put on makeup, I won’t do it,” she says.
It seems like pure common sense not to use anti-aging routines when you are not even 20 years old, but the message will have to be repeated: “Active ingredients like retinol and vitamin C make no sense in young skin,” the Dermik specialist states emphatically.
“Retinol is one of the active ingredients with the greatest scientific evidence for the prevention and treatment of signs of skin aging. There is no established age to recommend it, but it is logical to start when the appearance of small wrinkles, changes in pigmentation or irregular skin texture, among others, is already evident,” reasons Natalia Jiménez, dermatologist at the GEDET (Spanish Group of Aesthetic Dermatology and Therapeutics) of the AEDV. “We do not observe it in an adolescent, so it does not make sense to use it with that indication. However, there are medical situations in which we use it at an early age, such as the treatment of acne,” she says.
Trendy ingredients, such as niacinamide in high concentrations, also do teenagers no favors: “Both niacinamide and vitamin C are highly recommended active ingredients in adulthood. The first, mainly for its anti-inflammatory and depigmenting action and the second, for its antioxidant capacity. Its main indications do not usually correspond to the usual needs of adolescent skin,” concludes Dr. Natalia Jiménez.
Leaving skincare in the hands of your favorite influencer or friends is a mistake that can cause allergies, imbalance of the skin barrier, irritation or even peeling of the skin, specialists warn. “Cosmetics should not be chosen based on brands or trends, we should use them based on our situation, based on the active ingredients we need and, ideally, with professional advice for this,” declares the dermatologist.
Is there an ideal age to start? “There is no exact age, but it is interesting to introduce adolescents to healthy habits such as cleaning and using sunscreen adapted to their skin type,” she says. “It is essential,” agrees pharmacist Jerónimo Ors. “Today we know that before the age of 20 is when the most sun damage accumulates,” he says.
Yes to cleansers without detergents, micellar water, sun protection with astringent or mattifying active ingredients when sebaceous activity is working at full capacity… This would be a good plan for younger skin. “For adolescents, it is essential to establish a facial cleansing routine adapted to their skin type, morning and night, not just once as is often the case,” advises Natalia Jiménez.
“Hygiene indicated for the type of skin and sun protection, which is more effective as a prevention of aging than a very expensive cream,” adds Dr. Alicia Merino. “If there are blemishes or acne, hydroxy acids, glycolic acid, salicylic acid or other treatments, always prescribed…” she adds. “Triple cleansing, which is also starting to become fashionable, is only for makeup with many layers and very covering textures, like cement,” she says ironically. “When hydration is needed, a moisturizer with ceramides,” she recommends. “If on specific occasions adolescents notice dryness or tightness on their face, it is interesting that they use a probiotic moisturizing cream,” suggests Jerónimo Ors.
LED masks and facial cleansing brushes? No hurry. The best antidote against cosmeticorexia is good education in the use of cosmetics and a specialized diagnosis that guides the routine to follow based on the needs of the skin. Promoting self-acceptance and self-esteem is also a pending issue, as would learning to distinguish good information on the Internet. Professional, specialized and accessible dissemination on TikTok is essential right now. To educate, you have to speak their language.