Brittany is the westernmost territory of the French hexagon. A country with a very marked personality and a landscape that lends itself to legends. One of the most bewitching small territories is that of the Pink Granite Coast, a sector of barely 30 kilometers in which the mineral that gives it its name gives it a special charm.
Granite is an igneous stone – coming from the cooled magma of the center of the Earth – that can have various shades. The pink is actually almost an optical effect that is perceived when observing the mixture of mica –black–, quartz –white– and red feldspar. The coastline, which is located between the estuary of the Jaudy river and Plouescat, is populated by these rocks, very old and worn away by the persistent violent waves of the Atlantic Ocean and the classic wind of the area. Thus, the landscape of the Pink Granite Coast is rounded, forming mounds of stones that seem to have been forgotten by a playful giant.
Saint-Guirec beach, in Ploumanac’h, is the ideal place to start your exploration. It is a sandy area that alternates with huge round rocks. At sunset, when the sun sizzles down into the sea, it is the magical moment when the whole landscape turns orange, with the pink granite reaching its maximum brilliance. Dawn can sometimes help, but since the sun rises in the east, behind the coast, the effect is more attenuated.
Not only natural elements have modeled the landscape. On that same Saint-Guirec beach there is a church carved into the pink rock. It is a simple oratory, with two entrance columns that were carved almost a millennium ago, between the 11th and 12th centuries. Inside the dome is the image of the saint who gives it its name. A rare tradition says that if a woman managed to insert a needle through the nose of the image, she would get married. It is not feasible that she went through so many attempts, but the truth is that the saint’s nose has fallen off, and today whoever wants to go down the aisle will have to resort to other tactics.
Nearby is the Perros-Guirec sculpture park, where pink granite has been the basis for the creation of some thirty carvings that refer to Breton mythological beings. The most impressive, the fierce Ankou, who personifies death and looks like he escaped from a video game.
In addition to the rocky spectacle, which can be followed practically along the 30 km of coastline, it is worth visiting one of the few towns in this portion of Brittany, which, precisely, does not stand out for having cities but rather charming seaside towns. A prominent one is Tréguier. The ocean is completely sheltered, located at the point of confluence of the Jaudy and Le Guindy rivers, forming a delightful river port.
In the perfectly preserved medieval framework of Tréguier, its most outstanding monument is the cathedral. It is dedicated to Saint Tugdual, a Welsh monk who did not fear the waves of the English Channel and crossed it to found a monastery here. The whole of the basilica is harmonious, even when different constructions with very different styles are observed.
Standing inside the cloister with its Gothic arches is the ideal point to admire the bell towers. Afterwards, you have to go for a walk among the houses with slate roofs and exposed wooden skeletons with plaster panels painted in pastel colours. This opens up an unquestionable appetite to gobble down the sweet Breton galettes accompanied by their unbeatable cider.
Those who are not afraid of the rolling waves can base themselves on Tréguier for a visit to the Sept Îles nature reserve, populated by more than 20,000 birds, including a colony of elegant gannets. Gray seals are also sighted on occasion. The only one of the seven islands where landing is allowed is Moines, but the tourist boats approach the cliffs from which, with binoculars, many species of seabirds can be identified.
The largest town on the Pink Granite Coast is Lannion, with just 20,000 inhabitants but all services, a very convenient base. The city of Brest is 95 km away by road.
