The sea also needs to breathe and, for this, it sometimes penetrates the land: in the form of wetlands and backwaters in southern India; through El Bufador, a crack in the cliffs of Peñíscola; or, also, in the form of an Asturian beach. The principality has two of the only “inland” beaches such as the iconic Gulpiyuri and the not so well known Cobijeru (or Cobiheru, in Asturian).
Located 15 kilometers from Llanes – a highly recommended visit if we are in the municipality -, and 3 kilometers from the small town of Buelna, the starting point for the best hiking route, the Cobijeru complex was declared a natural monument in 2001 and today represents A real discovery during the summer months. A paradise that invites you to immerse yourself in nature as long as we wear a swimsuit, comfortable shoes and, yes, also a flashlight
And it is that beyond taking a dip, Cobijeru reveals various experiences for lovers of caving, hiking or the simple art of stopping to discover the charms of the Asturian coast.
When we park the car in the small parking lot, the green surrounds us and the trees seem to emit the sound of water. The sounds are confused and guide us through a narrow path between grooves until we reach the first of the surprises: the one known as Cueva de las Raíces, a cavity inside which stalactites hang and moss takes over the entire internal structure.
When leaving, the route takes us to what looks like a large pond. Or maybe it’s a lake? No, it is actually a portion of the Cantabrian Sea that thousands of years ago slipped through two hills to form the inland beach of Cobijeru, separated from the sea by a natural arch known as Salto del Caballo. One of the best platforms from which to obtain a spectacular view of this geological complex. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves.
From here, you can take a well-deserved bath in this magical oasis if there is a high tide, since otherwise the sea recedes and the beach remains empty, a factor that greatly detracts from the landscape. Cobijeru beach is 30 meters long and 50 meters wide, and its waters are shallow, so it is highly recommended for adults but also for children.
If you are going to extend the immersion or you just prefer to go on a day of hiking, there is nothing better than proceeding from the beach in search of all the secrets of this unique natural monument, it is as if the land and the sea crossed each other in courtship through of different passageways, cracks and cavities such as the Cobijeru cave. All you have to do is walk a few steps beyond the homonymous beach, and climb up the rocks until you reach a cave that requires you to bend your back when immersing yourself in all its mysteries.
In the distance, the dog of two travelers begins to bark confused by the lanterns, the leaks surround us and the stalactites and stalagmites reappear from the most unexpected corners. Little by little, we discover that the light at the end of the tunnel is blue, very blue. The climax of the dive is a natural window to the Bay of Biscay worth admiring.
Sometimes, if the tide is right, it is possible to approach the shore of the sea itself, although it is not recommended if there is high tide, since access can be dangerous. Upon returning, you may discover a set of cave paintings with archers and reddish buffaloes that simulate those painted in the Altamira caves. However, these are forgeries without any archaeological validity. In fact, you will surely see several of these drawings rubbed into the rock itself.
For when you see the light of the natural monument of Cobijeru again, we can go to the west where the Molín beach is located. This name is due to the presence of an old tidal mill in a dilapidated state next to a muddy piece of land that is forbidden to the public. Shortly after, we can extend the route along the cliffs to the beaches of Buelna or Entremares. Or better: succumb to more secrets without having to get too far away.
If you decide to go beyond the Cobijeru beach and cave, you will discover some simply fascinating geographical accidents: the buffoons, the name given to the karstic cavities through which the sea seeps onto the beach. When the low tide makes the sea recede, only the sound of the air remains. It is the way that the great blue has to get away or, perhaps, the sob of the earth missing the Cantabrian.
