An oasis between the aridity of the desert and the waves of the Pacific. A haven of calm halfway between the tourism of Los Cabos and the city of La Paz, capital of the state of Baja California Sur. An inexhaustible source of inspiration for artists from far away. The long-awaited wave that nomadic surfers hope to ride. A walk through the most unknown history of Mexico, to the rhythm of rock and roll. That, and something more, is Todos Santos, a town included in the select list of Magical Towns of Mexico.
Its origin must be sought in the times of missionaries. Back in the 18th century, the Jesuits laid the foundations of a first church in the town from which to evangelize the Guaycura and Pericúe ethnic groups. That was the germ of the population and even today the temple of the Santa Rosa Mission is its epicenter and perhaps its most relevant historical monument.
The other jewel of the heritage is more recent and simple, but with a special echo of legend. This is the California Hotel, which has no notable architectural claims and is not even an accommodation today. Although that does not prevent it from being the most sought after by visitors. Because? For its supposed relationship with the rock anthem of the same name composed by The Eagles in the 70s.
However, nothing unites Todos Santos with the mythical song. Even the North American band complained to its owners for enriching themselves at their expense, alleging that they had never been in these parts and certainly had not been inspired by such a place for their big hit. Even so, there is no report about Todos Santos in which the chords of Hotel California do not resonate. As on so many occasions, legend has swallowed reality.
Here is further proof of the undeniable creative magic of this Mexican corner. For a couple of decades the place has experienced a kind of resurrection thanks to art. Painters, sculptors and designers from Europe and especially from rich North America have settled in the city and its surroundings. A good example of this are the dozens of open art galleries or the graffiti and sculptures scattered throughout the streets.
These creators have found inspiring colors, lights and aromas here, as well as a relaxed and free atmosphere that they lacked in their places of origin. The vast majority of them and also the visitors are of American origin. Something paradoxical, since Todos Santos has always boasted of its fierce resistance to the gringo invasion of the mid-19th century, when the United States tried to forcibly occupy the Baja California peninsula. And although at that time the city was never taken, now, at the beginning of the 21st century, the conquest comes in a more sibylline and efficient way through cultural and economic means.
A walk through its straight streets clearly shows this fusion of tastes and customs with the neighbor to the north. English coexists with Spanish, and even dominates any label. And along with the street taquerias, special mention for the shrimp tacos from La Paceña, the coolest restaurants open for visitors and wealthy foreign residents, such as Oystera, where the specialty is oysters served with very “spicy” sauces. While the traditional ice cream parlors with “snows” in cones alternate with bars where their exclusive cocktails are paid in dollars. Or the historic Todos Santos theater named after the hero Manuel Márquez de León who fought so hard against the occupation of the United States, today hosts a film festival to which Hollywood celebrities usually come.
The old rancher town has been completely transformed. Now it is a friendly tourist destination. Nothing crowded and with an air of exclusivity thanks to boutique hotels like the Guaycura Hotel
All you have to do is cross the surprising orchard of palm trees, avocados and mangoes that surrounds the center to reach the nearest beaches. Especially Los Cerritos, dominated at one end by the Punta Lobos spur. It is reached through a dirt road that discovers a spectacular coastline that invites you to take a dip.
But pay attention to the Pacific, whose name always deceives. Its waves and currents do not recommend swimming. To enjoy it you have to put on a neoprene and get on a surfboard. Several local companies offer their classes to neophytes. What better souvenir after a trip to Los Cabos and Baja California Sur than learning to surf!
