“When a dress is well made, it is suitable for dancing and horseback riding,” Coco Chanel used to say. The great French dressmaker and designer became interested in the world of equestrianism during her stays at the home of her lover, Étienne Balsan, a rich heir who spent his free time raising horses and playing polo. It was precisely Balsan, whose guests Coco made hats and small accessories, who introduced Gabrielle Chanel to her great love, Boy Capel, a businessman and polo player who died in a tragic car accident. Later, Coco had an affair with the Duke of Westminster, a horse racing fan who she defined as “elegance in person: he wears the same impeccable jackets from 25 years ago,” as Isabelle Fiemeyer states in her book. Chanel Intimate.
More than 50 years after the death of Gabrielle Chanel, equestrianism continues to be a great source of inspiration for the brand. You just have to remember the spring-summer 2022 haute couture show that Carlota Casiraghi opened dressed as a competition horsewoman and jogging along the catwalk erected at the Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris. Her mother, Princess Caroline of Monaco, was a close friend of the late Karl Lagerfeld and her grandmother, Grace Kelly, was, like her, a great horse riding enthusiast.
The image of Casiraghi in a tweed jewel jacket and rhinestone buttons went around the world, “demonstrating the aesthetic emotion, exclusivity and search for perfection of Haute Couture,” Virginie Viard, the current director, explained to the press. creative of Chanel and great friend of the Grimaldi. And he added: “I started from the work of Coco Chanel in the 1920s, when she gave a contemporary twist to the polo uniform, to the padding of jockey jackets, which she would later use in the iconic 2.55 bag, and attended numerous equestrian competitions in a suit. and bowtie.”
Decades before, Farrah Fawcett had already worn a three-piece with a tie for horse riding, just as Beatriz Ferrer-Salat has occasionally done in dressage competitions. Replicating this style, we find the proposals of Pomandère, Sandro, Yerse and another legend of polo matches, Ralph Lauren, who usually poses for the media accompanied by his horses.
There are many celebrities who have practiced horse riding since they were little, from Infanta Elena to Marta Ortega, Athina Roussel Onassis, Kate Middleton, Jennifer Gates and the daughter of Bruce Springsteen and Patti Scialfa, Jessica. They are historically joined by the late Queen of England and Bianca Jagger, who posed for a historic photograph on her thirtieth birthday with the white horse that Steve Rubell, director of Studio 54, gave her for the occasion.
Another regular at Studio 54 was Yves Saint Laurent, who made the safari jacket fashionable and also had his models parade on multiple occasions in breeches or high riding boots, similar to what we call over the knee boots today, which we see in multiple proposals this fall. of different aesthetics by Hermès, Jimmy Choo, COS and the Spanish brand Mascaró. Founded in Menorca in 1918, this family business has created for this new season a collection totally inspired by horses, protagonists of the great popular festivals of this Balearic island, with white pants, bar jackets, white shirts and black and white outfits. For sunset parties, Mariandrée Gaitán has blouse and skirt combinations with straps, and Prada with the most glamorous maxi dresses.
Other legendary brands associated with horse riding are La Martina; LOEWE, with its evergreen Amazona bag and its windproof trench coats, like the double-collar one that is causing a sensation this year; and, obviously, Hermès. “Its founder, Thierry, took his first steps in 1837, making top-quality bridles and harnesses to supply the aristocracy. Almost a century later, in 1922, the first women’s leather bag was born along with other accessories with the equestrian theme as a leitmotif,” explains journalist Eloy Valero, contributor to the De Moda program on the 4TV channel.
“Hermès creations have been worn by other great stars of this sport, such as the Spanish Carlos Gómez or Sergio Álvarez Moya. In the United Kingdom, this French house has a great presence in multiple competitions, and especially in the Aintree Grand National obstacle course, one of the most prestigious in the world,” adds Michelle Connors, stylist for Grazia UK. statements to which the equestrian physiotherapist Hugo Moreno adds, with extensive experience in the tournaments of the Sotogrande Equestrian Club in Cádiz, one of the paradises for decades for the practice of equestrianism: “The fundamental thing is that the products are adapted to the current era and, without a doubt, the world of luxury, as in the case of Hermès, demonstrates this amply every year.”
Another brand that has always kept pace in the world of fashion is Gucci. “Its founder, Guccio, created his empire manufacturing leather goods and luggage entirely in leather and given the passion of his exclusive clientele for horse riding, years later, the firm launched Horsebit, its first bag decorated with a double ring and a bar as elements. equestrian that have become one of the symbols of the brand,” says Valero. For this fall, the Horsebit Chain Bag has been introduced in a new variety of color combinations and interpreted in quilted, shearling, crystal and contrasting leather manifestations.
Flamenco fashion and the horse have always been interrelated, which is why we find numerous collections that seek to unite maximum elegance, tradition and heritage, both in Spain and in Latin American countries, such as Mexico, as we see in the creations of Benito Santos.
The decoration of equestrian clubs also has pieces of perennial design. This is the case “of the Artek Stool 60 stool designed by Alvar Aalto 90 years ago and also of other interior design beauties such as his 307 stool, both produced by Vitra. Another jewel that always exudes elegance in any rustic living room is the LC4 chaise longue with a metal structure and leather seat designed by Le Corbusier, Pierre Jeanneret and Charlotte Perriand for Cassina,” says the interior designer with a studio in Malaga, Marga Salas.
Likewise, for any space that wants to exude that equestrian atmosphere, we have Nanimarquina rugs, especially those from its Chillida collection, in black and white, and those in brown tones from its Wellbeing line, all of them emblems of comfort and personality. To also provide an even more special touch, the suede and fringe cushions from Westwing, and the Apple bucket bag from Reflections Copenhagen, stand out. Nuno Oliveira, considered the greatest master of equestrian art of the 20th century, already said it: “There are two things in horsemanship: technique and heart.”
