The image of medieval monasteries on the slopes of steep mountains covered in mist, skilled soccer players with exotic, almost unpronounceable surnames, and the Black Sea; As a matter of fact, these three concepts are the first ones that Spanish travelers probably come to mind when thinking about Georgia. Crossroads between Europe and Asia for centuries, the country, which contains one natural treasure after another, is positioning itself internationally as a destination for culture and active tourism thanks to numerous world heritage sites and the Caucasus mountain range.
Many of these Georgian attractions are concentrated in the coastal region of Ajara, whose capital is Batumi, a dynamic city that regularly appears in the highest positions of the most prestigious lists and awards. The most recent, those obtained in the latest edition of the World Travel Awards, the Oscars of tourism, whose last gala ceremony took place here at the end of last September. The awards have distinguished the city as the best emerging destination in Europe and the best year-round destination in Europe. Reasons for this, as we are going to see, are not lacking.
Founded in the 4th century BC. With the name of Batus -port-, Batumi is a city rich in history, in which Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Turks, Arabs, Mongols and Russians have left their mark. Its period of prosperity would come at the end of the 19th century, when, part of the Russian Empire, and in the heat of the then already thriving oil industry, it acquired the status of free port and became its main commercial port on the Black Sea. This attracts merchants from all over the world, such as the Nobel brothers, who lived in the town for several years and launched different projects, such as an oil cooperative. Today the building houses the Technological Museum of the Nobel Brothers, where all the details of their stay in Batumi are revealed.
From those years, it preserves a rich architectural heritage of neo-Renaissance and pre-modernist villas. After the revolution, now under the rule of the Soviet Union, Batumi retained its strategic and commercial importance and became one of the holiday destinations preferred by the elites. Although currently the naval and oil industries are very important, tourism is even more so. Before the pandemic, more than six million people visited it annually – figures that are already recovering – and all of this makes it Georgia’s second city and its main tourist and cultural hub.
Despite the ups and downs to which history has subjected it, Batumi displays its European heritage and character everywhere. EU flags adorn streets and squares, and the statue of Medea greets the traveler atop a pedestal in Europa Square, symbolizing the union between the Old Continent and Asia. It is not a casual choice: mythology places in these lands of the Ajara region the legend of Jason and the Argonauts, in which Medea had a great role. The other major point of interest in this square is the astronomical clock on the façade of the art nouveau building that houses the headquarters of the National Bank of Georgia.
Residential skyscrapers of impossible shapes coexist with buildings from the Soviet era, charming cafes located in historic villas with lush gardens, tree-lined streets and avenues with sidewalks packed with walkers. All this, together with the blue of the Black Sea and the kindness of a subtropical climate, makes Batumi a very popular travel destination for Turkish and Israeli tourists. And the Turkish border is very close, and there are numerous commercial flights that connect it with Tel Aviv in a couple of hours. It is also well connected to the rest of Europe and the main capitals of Central Asia and the Gulf countries.
Thus, in recent years, the main international hotel chains have built gigantic hotels, giving the city a futuristic urban profile full of spectacular buildings. If not the tallest, perhaps the most striking is the Alfabeto tower, the work of the Spaniard Alberto Domingo Cabo, which at 133 meters high stands out on Batumi Boulevard, the seafront promenade. The structure, topped by a circular peak where there is a revolving panoramic restaurant, is adorned by the 33 letters of the Georgian alphabet, arranged in such a way that they resemble the structure of DNA.
Another surprising construction is the Technological University Tower, 200 meters high, which, as a peculiarity, has a hanging ferris wheel with cabins inserted into its façade. And we can’t miss walking through the Batumi Piazza. Inspired by Italian piazzas, it serves as a stage for concerts of all kinds – from Sting to Macy Gray, for example – and is flanked by hotels, restaurants and cafes.
But the real showcase of the capital is the boulevard. Families and tourists share this promenade of just over seven kilometers, whose origins date back to the 19th century. Adorned by kiosks, cafes and works of art, its most popular point is a work by the Georgian artist Tamara Kvesitadze. This is the set of Man and Woman, later renamed Ali and Nino, which is the most recognizable icon of Batumi.
The sculpture, inaugurated in 2010, is made up of two 8-meter-high steel figures that move slowly. Every ten minutes, they intertwine showing the relationship between Ali and Nino, the main characters of the novel Ali and Nino, written by Kurban Said that tells a love story between Ali, a young Muslim Azerbaijani man, and Nino, a Christian Georgian princess. The sculpture represents the fusion of cultures, from Europe and Asia, and the idea of ??love and togetherness beyond differences, reflecting the rich multicultural heritage of Georgia and Azerbaijan.
Just a stone’s throw from the center there are other places that are essential to visit. The botanical garden, created in 1912, is one of the largest and most spectacular on the continent (in fact, it won the award for the best botanical garden in Europe in this recent edition of the World Travel Awards). Its 108 hectares are home to nine different ecosystems, from East Asia to South America, and from the Himalayas to Mexico. The lushness of the species, among which there are even centuries-old sequoias and magnolias, and its spectacular seafront, which occupies just over a kilometer of cliffs completely covered in vegetation, make a visit essential.
The Gonio fortress, about 12 kilometers from the heart of the city, is one of the oldest in Georgia. Its construction dates back to the 1st century AD, and due to its privileged location on the Chorokhi River, its walls have garrisoned Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans, and some studies even indicate that the apostle Matthew could have been buried here. Numerous activities are organized in the fortress for visitors: from spending the night in a Roman camp to participating in workshops and gastronomic tastings.
The other great historical fortress of Batumi is Petra, at the gates of the capital, strategically located on the Black Sea. Dating back to Roman times, it is the ideal setting to attend a traditional folklore performance, with polyphonic choirs and dances such as the gandagana, which is a world heritage site, or also observe – and taste afterwards – what the traditional production process of Georgian wine. Toast in the Petra fortress with a glass of chkhaveri, watching the evening fall, is an ideal way to conclude this getaway to this jewel of the Black Sea.
